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Heavy Table

@heavytable.com
2.5K followers 72 following 146 posts

An in-depth weekly culinary newsletter covering the Upper Midwest since 2009. Back us on Substack (heavytable.substack.com) to start getting the Tap, Churn, Hearth, and Tulip and Schooner.

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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 29/08/2026
After 16 years of covering the Minnesota State Fair's food, drink, and hospitality, we've decided… that we're not done with it yet. What makes the Fair so compelling, entertaining, infuriating, and ultimately important? We dig into the details: heavytable.substack.com/p/alls-fair
A lovely photo of the Ferris Wheel at the Minnesota State Fair with sky glider cars coasting in the foreground. Louis Livingston-Garcia / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 27/08/2026
Well, we survived DAY ONE of hardcore State Fair food eating and the results will be yours to savor first thing tomorrow morning. Our view was fixed relentlessly on value, and we found some gems, a lot of eye-watering high prices, and some amusing "not exactly as depicted" foods (see below.)
A scrunky, goofy-looking brandy old fashioned cookie dough treat is pictured next to a sleek, uptown-styled version of itself as depicted in its official advertisement. Sarah McGee / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 26/08/2026
We've gathered a thick stack of twenties, a pile of tickets, a sheaf of maps and checklists, and we're ready to rock the Fair tomorrow so that we can bring you a fearlessly critical Friday morning roundup of cheers and jeers. See you at the Fair!
The founder of Greater Tater gestures as he serves customers at the 2025 Minnesota State Fair. Joshua Feist / Heavy Table / FileThe Heavy Table team of about a dozen writers and photographers and illustrators, assembled at the 2025 Minnesota State Fair under a big blue State Fair arch. Nathan Wold / Heavy Table / FileSome horrific jalapeño-studded doughnut thing from the 2025 Minnesota State Fair. Becca Dilley / Heavy Table / File
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 13/08/2026
Tomorrow's edition: We check out Bill's Bait Shop, the place where northwoods supper club meets influencer culture meets Pirates of the Caribbean-level subtlety. Featuring: One of the most poorly constructed burgers we've eaten in years!
The interior of Bill's Bait Shop, a restaurant in Minneapolis. Diners enter a sitting area, framed by a wall mural of a trout with the restaurant's name spelled out in neon letters. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 06/08/2026
All this and so, so, so much more from our contributing writers and photographers, available for $5/month (Churn + Hearth + Tulip) or $10/month (all of the above + the Tap). We're out there documenting the food and drink and people who make this scene shine - never AI, always human beings.
Sesame cheese bread at Ramadan's Egyptian Cafe. Joshua Feist / Heavy  Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 06/08/2026
And in the Tap, an interview with Ali Mohamed. He's the creator of Ramadan's, an Egyptian cafe in Minneapolis that is setting out to change the way Minnesotans experience coffee.
Ramadan's Egyptian Cafe founder Ali Mohamed sits below a white logo for the cafe on a green, grasslike background. Joshua Feist / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 06/08/2026
Tomorrow in the Tulip and Schooner newsletter! Cocktail columnist John Garland goes deep on the Chi Chi's marg and a gallon of colonoscopy prep. It's a broad mandate!
A seductively limey-looking Chi-Chi's margarita sitting on a bar with bottles behind it. John Garland / Heavy TableAn imposing white gallon bottle of GaviLyte colonoscopy prep liquid plus an industrial looking packet of lemon flavor powder. John Garland / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 03/06/2026
Coming this Friday morning: Reviews of three remarkably(!) good restaurants in our closing edition of the Green Line Checklist. And an OK one. And a pretty bad one. All in all, a good way to wrap a great food tour.
The sprawling blonde-wood bakery case at Zao Bakery in Saint Paul is filled with an assortment of sweet and savory buns and dumplings. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableAn illustration of four people walking toward Kumar's Express in Stadium Village. WACSO / Heavy TableIn this illustration, a smiling waitress brings three extremely hot bowls of tofu stew to customers at Kimchi Tofu House in Minneapolis. A detail depicts mandu and banchan. WACSO / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 21/04/2026
The Afro-Caribbean-inspired Arch and River will replace Owamni at the Water Works Pavilion. Here's our 2022 profile of Arch and River's founders and their pop-up patisserie, B'beri: heavytable.com/the-globe-tr...
Diane Moukouri and Fritz Ebanda of B'beri Desserts and (now) Arch and River, pictured in 2022. Jeanne Lakso / Heavy Table / File
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/04/2026
And in tomorrow's edition of the Tap newsletter: the longform story at Chef Baaska's journey from dish washer to master of artful omakase sushi, written by @mikenorton.org
Two rows of nigiri sushi made by Minnesota-based chef Baaska. Each piece of nigiri is garnished elaborately. Mike Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/04/2026
New on the website: April's Arab American heritage flavor collection at Milkjam in Minneapolis. heavytable.com/arab-america...
A square dish with four Arab American heritage-inspired ice creams from Milkjam in Minneapolis. Stacy Brooks / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 25/02/2026
Plus, hit the website to check out the latest video project from Nathan Wold, a profile of Cafe Racer Kitchen in Minneapolis. We've got a teaser promo below:
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 25/02/2026
Great week to subscribe to the newsletter if you don't already: We've got an in-depth (and mixed) review of Daniel del Prado's new French restaurant, Thérèse. heavytable.substack.com
A panna cotta and charred meringue from Thérèse in Minneapolis. Roseanne Pereira / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 28/01/2026
This Friday morning in the newsletter: Five new reviews from the Green Line in Saint Paul and Minneapolis. Thai! Chinese! African! Caribbean! University/Washington is one of the great immigrant cultural corridors and the restaurants there are fighting to survive.
A big, beefy bowl of boat noodles at Thai Boat 89 on University Avenue in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableShockingly good BBQ jerk chicken at West Indies Soul on University Avenue in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableAn illustration of Heavy Table's Checklist crew receiving tom yum and a plate of herbs at Thai Boat 89 on University Avenue, Saint Paul, Minnesota. WACSO / Heavy TableAn illustration of the sprawling and full bakery case at Cha Yes on University Avenue in Saint Paul, Minnesota. WACSO / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 06/01/2026
Meritage is opening a stand-alone steak frites restaurant in the to-be-announced future - in the meantime, the restaurant is offering a series of steak frites prix-fixe nights Jan. 14, 21, and 27.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 19/11/2025
New video just dropped: Ichigo Tokyo Crepes of Minneapolis. Free for all over on Substack, cheers and bon appetit! heavytable.substack.com/p/mia-oi-of-...
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 31/10/2025
Zen Box Izakaya is closing Nov. 22 after 21 years in business, citing road construction and the pending sale of its building.
Lina Goh and John Ng of Zen Box Izakaya. Dale Yasunaga / Heavy Table / FileRamen from Zen Box Izakaya. Dale Yasunaga / Heavy Table / File
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 30/10/2025
Tomorrow in the newsletter: Chi-Chi's 2.0. Huge buzz! Surprisingly challenging reservations! Can this reanimated dinosaur survive in a modern environment absolutely stuffed with terrific Mexican and Mexican-inspired dining?
Exterior photo of Chi-Chi's Mexican restaurant in Saint Louis Park, Minnesota. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableA blue bowl of fried ice cream covered in whipped cream and caramel drizzle from Chi-Chi's in Saint Louis Park. Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 17/09/2025
This week in the newsletter: how AI "art" resembles dodgy suburban sushi; also, some excellent deli-style sandwiches. Also: Maybe a trip to Flavortown?!
A baked sushi roll with parmesan sauce. James Norton / Heavy TableThe exterior of North Star Deli in Minneapolis. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 10/09/2025
Live for our subscribers (free and paid): Nathan Wold's mini-documentary on Mrs. Dessert and Kumpir, a border-straddling wonderland of Middle Eastern sweets with a world food twist. heavytable.substack.com/p/video-rose...
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 29/08/2025
Tomorrow morning! All subscribers! Chef Leonard Anderson of Tongue in Cheek in Saint Paul talks about how he bounced back from a bout with cancer that took his sense of taste.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 21/08/2025
“The scorpion was chewy,” reports John Garland.
A scorpion in a lollipop on the edge of the Stinger wine drink from the Hideaway. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 21/08/2025
Fair gauntlet: RUN. 55+ items eaten or otherwise consumed. We ate a scorpion lollipop, cheese curds mixed with funnel cake, jalapeño doughnuts and God knows what else. Full report in the newsletter tomorrow 7am. Cheers!!
Butterfly peaflower blue tea with dazzling orange slice at Urban Glow at the Minnesota State Fair. James Norton / Heavy TableSolem’s Chocolate Chocolate (Chocolate?) doughnuts. Not subtle. Pretty delicious. James Norton / Heavy TableUbe banana lumpia from Lumpia City! James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 20/08/2025
We'll be out in force tomorrow eating and drinking … oh, I dunno, let's say 50-70 different things at the Minnesota State Fair. Celebrating 15 years of this insanity, folks! Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more...
An outstretched hand lovingly cradles a cardboard basket of crispy golden fried cheese curds at the Minnesota State Fair. Heavy Table / FileAn illustration of The Lunch Box, with its circular sign sprouting three smaller colorful circular signs touting Burgers, Fries, and Hot Dogs. WACSO / Heavy Table / FileA lumpy doughnut topped by a raspberry and a suspicious looking yellow and pink pebbly paste and impaled by a flavor-concealing plastic pink test tube. Heavy Table / File
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 08/08/2025
Here's a little teaser video for today's longer-form feature on Kinzo Udon in Stadium Village. Video by the talented Nathan Wold; if you'd like to get Heavy Table's four culinary newsletters plus the occasional video feature, subscribe to the magazine: heavytable.substack.com
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 31/07/2025
Tomorrow's newsletter: We roadtrip to Stockholm, Wisc. for some of the world's best pies. (That's not a claim we make lightly, they're really top-notch.) Featuring writing by @amyrea.bsky.social and photos plus video by Nathan Wold.
A slice of lemon-lingonberry pie from Stockholm Pie and General Store of Stockholm, Wisc. The lingonberry topping contains whole berries and covers the pie with a tart and tasty vengeance. Nathan Wold / Heavy TableOwner Alan Nugent of Stockholm Pie and General Store talks to a customer at the shop's wooden counter. Chalkboard menus are over his right shoulder. He's wearing glasses and smiling cheerfully. Nathan Wold / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 03/06/2025
More background on the restaurant and others along East Lake Street from our Checklist series, too: heavytable.com/east-lake-ch...
A kitchen worker at Las Cuatro Milpas in Minneapolis surrounded by tickets and takeout containers, illustrated by WACSO for Heavy Table.The tall green signage and awning-clad exterior of Las Cuatro Milpas Mexican restaurant in Minneapolis, by WACSO for Heavy Table.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 03/06/2025
As Las Cuatro Milpas on East Lake Street is besieged by ICE and other assisting police agencies, the story of the restaurant: heavytable.com/lake-street-...
An illustration of the exterior and signage of Las Cuatro Milpas on East Lake Street in Minneapolis. Lora Marie Hlavsa / Heavy TableOwner Hector Hernandez of the restaurant Las Cuatro Milpas on East Lake Street in Minneapolis. A bearded man wearing an orange hoodie with "Make Tacos not Walls" on the wall in the background. Lora Marie Hlavsa / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 30/05/2025
Today in the newsletter: There's a not-entirely-impressed torch-wielding online mob on the trail of Hey Y'all Tipsy Taco Bar, so we checked it out. Plus! A massive downtown Fargo food crawl. heavytable.substack.com/p/a-taste-of...
A chorizo-bedecked, increasingly seized up queso fundido from Hey Y'all Tipsy Taco Bar in Minneapolis. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableLayered banana pudding in a large mason jar with pink-wallpaper decorated restaurant interior in the background, from Hey Y'all Tipsy Taco Bar in Minneapolis. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableIce cream cone-shaped sign for The Silver Lining Creamery in Fargo, ND, plus a cup of strawberry-lemon sorbet. Amy Rea / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 22/05/2025
Third: We get up to the North Side of Minneapolis to visit with Dancing Bear Chocolate, an artful bakery with a business plan that won't quit. And we present a sponsored look at the Broders' mini-empire at 42, with art by WACSO and words by M.C. Cronin.
A luscious lemon curd creme tart layered with strawberries and blueberries at Dancing Bear Chocolate in North Minneapolis. Brenda Johnson / Heavy TableA customer gazes upon the remarkably full and enticing shelves at Broders' Deli in Minneapolis. Illustration by WACSO
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 22/05/2025
Terrific couple of newsletters tomorrow. Four quick highlights here: First, in the Hearth, author Wendy Makoons Geniusz harvests, breads, and bakes dandelions, inspired by Ojibwe culinary practice. Second: A killer plate of Ginger Beef Rice Noodle Salad.
A hand harvests a dandelion flower into a colander filled with six other flowers and a couple of morel mushrooms. Annmarie Geniusz / Heavy TableA big ol' platter of delicious-looking beef on rice noodles with mint and cilantro. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/05/2025
Hell of a newsletter today with a big rundown on the flavors of HmongTown in Saint Paul - words by @amyrea.bsky.social and photos by @tangledupinfood.bsky.social - check it out here: heavytable.substack.com/p/kinsleys-a...
Four different foods from HmongTown in Saint Paul - from upper L, clockwise: steamed catfish in a banana leaf, a lotus cookie, a BBQ pork skewer and a stuffed chicken wing with two sauces.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 24/04/2025
Especially fun update in tomorrow's newsletter: a Saint Paul cat cafe report, wherein we review the drinks, the pastries, and the cats. Possibly mostly the cats. Cheers to @amyrea.bsky.social and Joshua Feist for this one.
A fluffy ol' gray and white cat (Big Joe) lounges on a comfy cushion with a pillow behind him reading "Vibes," at Catzen Cafe in Saint Paul, Minn. Joshua Feist / Heavy TableTim the Enchanter, a little black cat, sits snuggled up in a hammock at Catzen, a cat cafe in Saint Paul, Minn. Joshua Feist / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 18/04/2025
Now posted and free for everyone: The Green Line Checklist visits King Cajun, Ishita Ramen, Peking Garden, Master Noodle, and Black Hart of Saint Paul. heavytable.substack.com/p/green-line...
Two dudes (MC Cronin and WACSO) look through a steamy window at Master Noodle as a chef shapes and pulls fresh noodles. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableAn illustration of three people eating plates full of boiled seafood in the crowded dining room of King Cajun with a big shark decoration looming overhead. WACSO / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 11/04/2025
Behold, the $135, six-foot-long, nearly infinitely fattening Saint Paul Saints Land of 10,000 Calories hot dog, as reviewed and (almost completely) eaten by @eliradtke17.bsky.social and friends. heavytable.com/hot-dog-hell...
Two photos of a grotesquely overloaded six-foot long hot dog served at Saint Paul Saints games for $135. The hot dogs are essentially buried beneath an ocean of pulled pork, jalapeño poppers, French fries, and other toppings. The spectacle is terrifying but also intriguing, and inspires both fear and desire. A cheerful-looking chef dressed in a blue shirt stands next to his monstrous creation. Eli Radtke / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 11/03/2025
A shout out to bakehouse/Honey & Rye for a remarkably good key lime mini pie (bottom left.) Salty graham cracker crust balanced the sweetness and citrus really well. bakehouse is doing a 3.14.25 Pi(e) Day event from 7am-4pm or until they sell out… which was around 10:15am last year.
Six miniature pies from bakehouse in Saint Louis Park, Minn. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 28/02/2025
Green Curry and Crispy Chicken Rice were equally excellent, with the curry having all the heat, earthiness, and seasoned depth you want, without any of the excessive sweetness that sometimes spoils this dish. The chicken was a textural delight, and served with a lovely habanero-powered sauce.
Crispy Chicken Rice at Basil Cafe in Saint Paul - a big mound of ginger / turmeric rice and delicately breaded chicken. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 28/02/2025
We like to save our food raves for the articles, but our meal at Basil Cafe in Saint Paul last night was so good it qualifies as an emergency. Superb pad Thai - balanced funk / sour / sweet and perfectly cooked chewy noodles, and a heavenly tom kha with a Jupiter-sized citrus kick.
Chicken Pad Thai at Basil Cafe in Saint Paul. Delicate noodles, chopped peanuts, and a couple of lime wedges comprise the dish. James Norton / Heavy TableA circular metal dish filled with exceedingly herbal Tom Kha soup with tofu at Basil Cafe in Saint Paul. James Norton / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 25/02/2025
Brief thread about the Union Hmong Kitchen catered "Feast" meal. We sprung for it this past weekend for a rented house gathering of 15 guests, and it ended up at around $95/person, all costs inclusive. For catering/private cheffing, one of the best experiences we've had. 1/2
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 13/02/2025
A killer edition of the Tulip and Schooner newsletter coming tomorrow at noon: a deep dive with Minnesota distiller Jace Marti about Black Frost Blended Rye and Bourbon, and a deep dive into sake making in at Moto-i in Minneapolis. Subscribe to read it all: heavytable.substack.com
Three different glasses filled with rice for sake making at Moto-i in Minneapolis. Joshua Feist / Heavy TableTwo 100ml sample bottles of Black Frost blended bourbon and blended rye whiskeys. Louis Livingston-Garcia / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 07/02/2025
Star Tribune has published a well-reported look at the chilling impact of ICE raids on life and commerce on East Lake Street and beyond. (Illustration from our East Lake Checklist, by WACSO.)
An illustration of Mercado Central on East Lake Street in Minneapolis. WACSO / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 02/02/2025
Mi Mexico Querido in Longfellow is closed. It’s a bummer; although their menu was unconventional in some ways the hospitality and food were generally on point.
Handwritten sign on the door of Mi Mexico Querido in Minneapolis: “We are close[d].”The colorful exterior sign at Mi Mexico Querido.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 09/01/2025
PARTICULARLY good newsletter tomorrow: an interview with Sean Sherman about his upcoming Indigenous BBQ spot (no pork! no beef! no chicken!), a rave review for Le Burger, and a taste of Turkey at Sofra. Cheers to @jrnorton.bsky.social @jeannelakso.bsky.social @amyrea.bsky.social for the words.
The eponymous burger from Le Burger. A massive saucy sesame seed-bedecked monster. Jeanne Lakso / Heavy TableThe kebab from Sofia, on a long dish with a creamy side sauce, on a wooden platter. Joshua Feist / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 20/12/2024
Newest Central Avenue Checklist newsletter posted today, featuring the best East African Sport Platter we've tried to date at Hodan, skewered beef heart, a perfect bar, and possibly the worst brisket sandwich in the region. heavytable.substack.com/p/central-av...
A photo of the sprawling Sport Platter from Hodan on Central Avenue in Minneapolis, featuring chicken, fish, spaghetti, rice, and more. Becca Dilley / Heavy TableThe owner of Hodan on Central Avenue in Minneapolis presents the Sport Platter to our table. Illustration by WACSO / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/12/2024
Last and most definitely not least, Rachel Anderson from Vikings and Goddesses will bless us on Feb. 8 with the knowledge of making perfect fruit pies.
Portrait of baker Rachel Anderson from Vikings and Goddesses wearing a blue and black striped jacket and a black top.An assortment of delicious pies from Vikings and Goddesses, in pie tins and also sliced and arranged on plates with forks.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/12/2024
On Feb. 1, Solveig Tofte of Sun Street Breads joins us to teach biscuits and orange rolls.
Headshot portrait photo of baker Solveig Tofte of Sun Street Breads.Appetizing square biscuits and delicious looking iced orange rolls on a cutting board.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/12/2024
Author Eric Dregni ("Never Trust a Thin Cook and Other Lessons from Italy's Culinary Capital") joins us on Jan. 25 to teach fresh pasta. He's also the dean of Lago del Bosco, the Italian village at Concordia.
Author photo of Eric Dregni, wearing a black jacket and blue button up shirt.A square crop of the cover of Never Trust a Thin Cook and Other Lessons from Italy's Culinary Capital by Eric Dregni.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 16/12/2024
Four killer classes, four fantastic instructors. Up first, on Jan. 18: Martha Durrett, of Cauldron Bagels, teaching bagelmaking 101.
Bagelmaker Martha Durrett, wearing a colorful sweater in front of a bookshelf full of cookbooks. Three delicious-looking bagels by Cauldron Bagels, with an everything bagel in the foreground.
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 06/12/2024
Featuring words by @amyrea.bsky.social @tangledupinfood.bsky.social @jrnorton.bsky.social @louisgarcia12.bsky.social @jeannelakso.bsky.social and photos by Joshua Feist / Becca Dilley / Victoria Campbell plus illustrations by WACSO and Lora Marie Hlavsa
An illustration of the Scandinavian mural adorning the exterior of Ingebretsen's on East Lake Street in Minneapolis. Lora Marie Hlavsa / Heavy Table
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Heavy Table @heavytable.com · 05/12/2024
Pour one out for the Red Dragon. The only place we've drank where there is signage specifically prohibiting asking for a refund for your beverage. Details on that beverage (and more) in our Checklist from this spring: heavytable.com/lyndale-aven...
Two customers walk toward the front door of the Red Dragon Restaurant and Lounge in Minneapolis. WACSO / Heavy TableA punch-based cocktail at the Red Dragon in Minneapolis. Signage at the table warns that drinks are non-returnable.
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