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Agnes Crawford

@understandingrome.bsky.social
299 followers 95 following 129 posts

Qualified Rome guide specialising in personalised tours. 23 years experience. Native Londoner, naturalised Roman. (Instagram: understandingrome)

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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 14/12/2025
My latest monthly newsletter, including info on how to join a live-streamed trot through festive Rome on Sun 21st December understandingrome.substack.com/p/decembers-...
understandingrome.substack.com
December's Postcard from Rome
I’ll be doing a live-streamed Christmas walk on 21 December, info and how to join is at the end!
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 15/12/2025
Great footage; bewildering (and often inaccurate) and fabulously arrogant voice over
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Elizabeth Crawford @womanssphere.bsky.social · 14/12/2025
Few things are more enjoyable than taking a Zoom walk through Christmassy Rome in the company of @understandingrome.bsky.social . Do look at the details in her post about how to book for the 21 Dec walk. An hour of pleasure - sights and sounds - without stirring from the sofa
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 14/12/2025
My latest monthly newsletter, including info on how to join a live-streamed trot through festive Rome on Sun 21st December understandingrome.substack.com/p/decembers-...
understandingrome.substack.com
December's Postcard from Rome
I’ll be doing a live-streamed Christmas walk on 21 December, info and how to join is at the end!
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 09/11/2025
Peak Rome
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 09/11/2025
Glimpses of a week packed with tours in Rome (which really doesn’t have to be busy). Never the same route twice
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 01/11/2025
Delighted to have a piece in November’s @apollo-magazine.com In print or online here: apollo-magazine.com/palazzo-farn...
apollo-magazine.com
A divine intervention at the Palazzo Farnese
The mythological frescoes painted by Annibale Carracci at the Farnese family's Roman palace are legendary in their own right, writes Agnes Crawford
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 29/10/2025
One of my favourite columns on the Palatine this morning, here’s a post about the time I went to where it came from (no paywall) open.substack.com/pub/understa...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 08/10/2025
October's monthly postcard from Rome. Well, Urbino.
understandingrome.substack.com
October's Monthly Postcard from Rome
When I was twenty-one years old, at the tail-end of the last millennium, the dissertation I wrote for my degree in Architectural History at Edinburgh University was called “Piero della Francesca: Arch...
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Evan Bernick, a finite mode with a smol hooman and a lorg floof @evanbernick.bsky.social · 02/10/2025
WHAT YOU FAIL TO SEE MR POPE
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 01/10/2025
Presently leading a delightful band of folk on a Piero della Francesca themed study trip. Yesterday we meandered across the mountains to Urbino to admire the palace of Federico da Montefeltro “of glorious memory”. The first time I went I was twenty and it was quite the odyssey
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 01/10/2025
Presently leading a delightful band of folk on a Piero della Francesca themed study trip. Yesterday we meandered across the mountains to Urbino to admire the palace of Federico da Montefeltro “of glorious memory”. The first time I went I was twenty and it was quite the odyssey
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 26/09/2025
I took a train in Umbria today and it trundled all the way to 1986
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Dr Sophie Hay @pompei79.bsky.social · 22/09/2025
That magical moment when the pumice is gently cleared away revealing, for the first time in nearly 2000 years, a white mosaic. #MosaicMonday #Pompeii
Most of the image is of a white mosaic and the top part is small pumice stones
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 20/09/2025
155 years ago today Rome fell from papal control and became the capital of the new Italian Kingdom (No paywall) understandingrome.substack.com/p/20-septemb...
understandingrome.substack.com
20 September 1870: La breccia di Porta Pia
Today is the anniversary of the breaching of the Aurelian Walls at Porta Pia, walls which had served as defences of the city for sixteen centuries.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 20/09/2025
155 years ago today Rome fell from papal control and became the capital of the new Italian Kingdom (No paywall) understandingrome.substack.com/p/20-septemb...
understandingrome.substack.com
20 September 1870: La breccia di Porta Pia
Today is the anniversary of the breaching of the Aurelian Walls at Porta Pia, walls which had served as defences of the city for sixteen centuries.
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
rogueclassicist ~ david meadows @rogueclassicist.bsky.social · 18/09/2025
(21) The Devil's Chair, or the tomb of (perhaps) Hadrian's freedman understandingrome.substack.com/p/the-devils...
understandingrome.substack.com
The Devil's Chair, or the tomb of (perhaps) Hadrian's freedman
As I have mentioned elsewhere I very much like combining errands with a spot of antiquity.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 15/09/2025
Some super floors in and around Rome on last week’s tours
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Max Hardy @maxjlhardy.bsky.social · 13/09/2025
You know you’re living in strange times when Last Night of the Proms feels like the least jingoistic thing happening in Britain at the moment.
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 10/09/2025
September's (free) Postcard from Rome: a beach day at the tail end of summer, and a rediscovered Mantegna lost for five centuries and rediscovered lurking in Pompei
understandingrome.substack.com
September's Postcard from Rome
In this second week of September cloudy skies and storms are trying, not entirely successfully, to sweep away the heat of summer leaving the air heavy, claustrophobic, and muggy.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 10/09/2025
September's (free) Postcard from Rome: a beach day at the tail end of summer, and a rediscovered Mantegna lost for five centuries and rediscovered lurking in Pompei
understandingrome.substack.com
September's Postcard from Rome
In this second week of September cloudy skies and storms are trying, not entirely successfully, to sweep away the heat of summer leaving the air heavy, claustrophobic, and muggy.
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 28/08/2025
New post has been sent to subscribers, it’s the first part of an itinerary through relentlessly evocative Ostia Antica which is just the best place for exploring ever ❤️💚
understandingrome.substack.com
A Wander through Ostia Antica, part 1
From the via Ostiense to the Theatre
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 28/08/2025
This courtyard in Ferrara reminded me of St Jerome in his Study, by the inestimable Antonello da Messina
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 08/09/2025
“I was thinking of very old times, when the Romans first came here, nineteen hundred years ago—the other day…” Crossing the tidal Thames on a bus yesterday reminded me of the Heart of Darkness, & a trio of Empires. Post now liberated from its paywall: understandingrome.substack.com/p/never-far-...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 08/09/2025
“I was thinking of very old times, when the Romans first came here, nineteen hundred years ago—the other day…” Crossing the tidal Thames on a bus yesterday reminded me of the Heart of Darkness, & a trio of Empires. Post now liberated from its paywall: understandingrome.substack.com/p/never-far-...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 31/08/2025
Sunday 31st August is surely one of the Sundayest Sundays of them all. This was the coast near Rome earlier today, more or less where Aeneas washed up. Probably.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 31/08/2025
Villa Borghese on a (very gentle) trot this morning 💙💚💙
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Jesse Locker @jessemlocker.bsky.social · 30/08/2025
Caravaggio's influential "Judith Beheading Holofernes," borrowed from the Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica in Rome, will be on view at the Kimbell in Fort Worth, September 14, 2025–January 11, 2026
fortworthreport.org
Kimbell presents Caravaggio’s "Judith Beheading Holofernes," one of the artist’s most renowned paintings
FORT WORTH, TX— The Kimbell Art Museum announced today that it will display Caravaggio’s Judith Beheading Holofernes as a Guest of Honor on loan from the
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 28/08/2025
This courtyard in Ferrara reminded me of St Jerome in his Study, by the inestimable Antonello da Messina
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 28/08/2025
New post has been sent to subscribers, it’s the first part of an itinerary through relentlessly evocative Ostia Antica which is just the best place for exploring ever ❤️💚
understandingrome.substack.com
A Wander through Ostia Antica, part 1
From the via Ostiense to the Theatre
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Dr Sophie Hay @pompei79.bsky.social · 25/08/2025
Honouring all the young tesserae that didn’t grow up to be a mosaic. A reused amphora housing thousands of loose white tesserae in the House of the Thiasus, #Pompeii. #MosaicMonday
A close up of loose white tesseraeA broken terracotta amphorae containing the loose, white tesseraeA broken terracotta amphorae containing the loose, white tesserae
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 23/08/2025
Cape Misenum, named for Aeneas’ trumpeter drowned for his hubris by Triton. It was once home to the most important base of the Imperial Fleet. The western Mediterranean was once controlled from here, and from here sailors were despatched to Rome to man the awning of the Colosseum #neverfarfromrome
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 23/08/2025
Cape Misenum, named for Aeneas’ trumpeter drowned for his hubris by Triton. It was once home to the most important base of the Imperial Fleet. The western Mediterranean was once controlled from here, and from here sailors were despatched to Rome to man the awning of the Colosseum #neverfarfromrome
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 19/08/2025
Me and an unfinished column at the quarry of Cottanello “marble” on a delightful jaunt this morning. I wrote about it the last time I went, and the extraordinary columns in Rome which came from here. Lots of pictures, no paywall. understandingrome.substack.com/p/stones-of-...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 19/08/2025
Me and an unfinished column at the quarry of Cottanello “marble” on a delightful jaunt this morning. I wrote about it the last time I went, and the extraordinary columns in Rome which came from here. Lots of pictures, no paywall. understandingrome.substack.com/p/stones-of-...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 19/08/2025
Briefly back in Rome and my evening walk looked like this, which is honestly pretty fab
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 16/08/2025
A few days with Florentine pals at Forte dei Marmi: where the beach clubs are timelessly smart, a slightly knackered bicycle is the chicest mode of transport, and the mountains are made of marble
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 15/08/2025
Buon Ferragosto, here’s what it’s all about (frittata di maccheroni fundamental element)
understandingrome.substack.com
August's Monthly Newsletter
Two weeks ago it was Ferragosto, the most holiday-ish of all Italian public holidays.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 12/08/2025
August traffic in Rome. Not pictured: three million percent humidity (approx)
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Oliver Darkshire @deathbybadger.bsky.social · 09/08/2025
reverse heist movie where a single snake has to chase all the priests back into ireland
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 10/08/2025
As they say, Rome wasn't built in a day...
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 07/08/2025
August's (free) monthly newsletter is out. Grotteschi and Grande Torino, after all one is never far from Rome! understandingrome.substack.com/p/augusts-mo...
understandingrome.substack.com
August's Monthly Newsletter
I love the slightly sticky languid torpor of August in Italy.
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Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Jesse Locker @jessemlocker.bsky.social · 25/10/2024
Date idea Calcedonio Reina, Amore e Morte, or Two Lovers before the Desiccated Corpses of Monks in the Capuchin catacombs of Palermo, 1881. Oil on canvas, 119 x 149 cm, signed on bottom left- Cal(cedo)nio Reina (Catania, Museo Civico Castello Ursino) 💀❤️
A painting of two lovers, all dressed up, kissing in the catacombs of Palermo, surrounded by the desiccated corpses of Capuchin monks
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 07/08/2025
August's (free) monthly newsletter is out. Grotteschi and Grande Torino, after all one is never far from Rome! understandingrome.substack.com/p/augusts-mo...
understandingrome.substack.com
August's Monthly Newsletter
I love the slightly sticky languid torpor of August in Italy.
052
Reposted by Agnes Crawford
Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 26/07/2025
“Una strada, un’amico, un bar”Memory, melancholy, and optimism; James Joyce and Romina Power, and the multiple iterations of self. My latest newsletter is my most personal understandingrome.substack.com/p/vespa-tune...
understandingrome.substack.com
Vespa Tunes XXIV: Nostalgia Canaglia, Romina Power & Al Bano, 1986
Twenty-five years ago I moved into a flat-share on via della Pelliccia in Trastevere.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 31/07/2025
This morning’s tour included a visit to the church with the barmiest chandeliers in town. High camp hiding off possibly my favourite street. Paywall removed! understandingrome.substack.com/p/some-of-my...
understandingrome.substack.com
Some of my favourite views of Rome
4: Clivo di Scauro
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 26/07/2025
“Una strada, un’amico, un bar”Memory, melancholy, and optimism; James Joyce and Romina Power, and the multiple iterations of self. My latest newsletter is my most personal understandingrome.substack.com/p/vespa-tune...
understandingrome.substack.com
Vespa Tunes XXIV: Nostalgia Canaglia, Romina Power & Al Bano, 1986
Twenty-five years ago I moved into a flat-share on via della Pelliccia in Trastevere.
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Agnes Crawford @understandingrome.bsky.social · 23/07/2025
My latest newsletter has been sent to subscribers understandingrome.substack.com/p/the-best-p...
understandingrome.substack.com
"The Best Picture in the World": one of my favourite paintings, and the serendipitous tale of how it survived the Second World War
In 1925 Aldous Huxley wrote an essay called “The Greatest Picture” in his book Along the Road, Notes and Essays of a Tourist. It begins:
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