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And lastly, the cap that was part of the same lot. An excellent example of an informal but still somewhat dressy morning cap. Those long, rounded lappets would hang over the wearer's shoulders. The wearer's name is inked inside, but is too common to trace. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

A photo of a white muslin cap with ruffles around the face and a very large, gathered crown. A set of ties tie under the chin, and two long lappets drape down to the sides.

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Very cool piece that sits midway between a bonnet and a cap! I have settled mostly on "bonnet", though. It dates to 1805-1810, prior to the Regency proper. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

Photo of a corded white cotton bonnet with no ties on a styrofoam head.

Photo of the same bonnet from the side, showing rows and rows of cording.

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Still deciding what I think about her. I am sort of wondering if this is a Quaker gown - no decoration, ambiguously dateable, dark-colored silk? But as I said during the auction, it could simply be someone's "best" that was later altered. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

A dress of dark green silk twill, with the increased upper sleeves of the mid 1820s.

Photo of the cuff on the dress's sleeve, with a self-fabric button.

A photo of the back of the gown's bodice, showing broad green-on-green striping across the center back piece.

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Initially I believed this to be a morning gown, as I think the auction described it, but when handling and dressing it I came to the conclusion that it's probably a warm-weather pelisse. There aren't enough of these out there! hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

Photo of a pelisse made of a white-on-white striped fabric, with a ruffles collar and ruffles down the front opening and around the hem.

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2) The motif embroidered around the train appears to be American sweetgum, native to the southeast of the United States, which might provide a hint toward the origins of the gown.

A shot of the train from above, showing the embroidered pointed leaves and spiky seedpods.

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Two particular things of interest here. 1) The drawstring at the back waist is set up to be drawn in at the sides and tied off in front, *under the skirt*, which seems to me to be a game-changer for Regency costumers everywhere. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

A white muslin gown with high waistline and full, short sleeves, embroidered down the front and around the hem.

The same gown from the back, showing the train.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 08/07/2026

Time to show off the new 👗s! The first is a drawstring-front gown from ca. 1800, with sleeves that extend down to the knuckles, which I love. Note that it does not open all the way down to the hem, that's a tuck. 🗃️🪡 hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

A photo of a narrow yellow-green print gown with a gathered bodice and long sleeves.

Close-up of the wrist curve in the sleeve, showing the abstracted floral print.

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Hannah Chatterton Hyde's 1857 wedding dress was made with diagonal pleats across the bodice and with bright blue silk button-ornaments sewn over the hook-and-eye closure. You can also make out the meticulous hand-stitching along the upper edge of the waistband. #WeddingWednesday 🗃️🪡

A close up photo of two double-tasseled ornaments on the front of a light blue silk bodice.

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The gown these pics are from is one of those transparent 1850s confections. The record suggests it might be/incorporate piña; I am not sure.

Pink and white silk wraps, crossed by an extremely thin, smooth, transparent fiber.

A closer view, showing how smooth the wefts are.

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Silk plush vs beaver fur would be screamingly obvious under higher magnification than I can achieve right now, but you can still see how much more orderly the former is.

Silk plush strands, smooth and long and shiny.

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On the left, the swirling tufts on the surface of a pair of leather breeches; on the right, individual aloe fibers twisted and wound into a net.

The surface of leather, a light tan sort of cloud flecked with darker brown.

Light brown stands wind around each other, manipulated individually. Background is white ethafoam.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 04/07/2026

This is the heavy, homespun-ish cotton check of an early 19thc apron. Still fairly smooth but rather messy (the fibers are not as smooth and long as silk; they have a sort of flattened ribbon look, with bends and twists).

A zoomed in photo of blue and white threads of varying thicknesses woven together.

Even more zoomed in, looking very messy indeed.

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Silk is, in probably a shock to no-one, is a smooth and shiny bundle of long-staple fibers. Highly twisted crepe on the left, plain taffeta on the right.

A highly magnified view of white silk crepe, showing over twisted, crinkling threads.

Taffeta: the same kind of threads but not over-twisted, very orderly and neat.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 24/06/2026

In 1842, South Avon bride Julia Bassman wore an extraordinary corset for her wedding. Made of two thin layers of fabric, it was decorated with padded quilting around the bust and hip gores and in discrete foliate motifs around the waist. 🗃️🪡 hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun... #WeddingWednesday

"Julia S Bassman / South Avon / 1842" is written on the waistline of the corset, below the bust gores.

The bust gores, each surrounded by a sort of scale pattern in quilting.

A twig with symmetrical leaves on it, quilted into the white corset.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 24/06/2026

I have a number of vintage patterns that I've been meaning to digitize and grade, but for various reasons haven't. Finally giving it a try!

The cover of a vintage blouse pattern, showing women in the four variants it contains.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 19/06/2026

#FootwearFriday for real! This pair (G2005.157a-b) dates to the 1730s based on the construction and fabric design. One can imagine them worn by a woman with very small feet, fastened with a pair of gleaming silver buckles. 🗃️🪡

A pair of heeled shoes with latches, but no buckles. They are covered with brown silk brocades with red and white flowers and vines.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 18/06/2026

Does anyone in the 🗃️🪡 know what German periodical labeled plates "Moden Z"? Two examples attached. We have a good few handfuls of them and I'd like to combine them under the proper title.

A fashion plate of three women in winter dress, 1818. Labeled "Moden Z. 1818 / No. 2" at the bottom.

A fashion plate showing two men in outdoor coats walking arm in arm, a woman in a green day gown and bonnet, and a woman and man in ball dress, with a few sketches of bonnets, bodices, etc. at the top. Labeled "Moden Z. 1838 / No. 43".

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 17/06/2026

For #WeddingWednesday, an 1819 wedding dress made of a fascinatingly woven figured muslin. From the shape, this would have likely been worn over an undergown with puffed sleeves to hold out these flounces. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun... 🗃️🪡

A close-up of a flared sleeve in white muslin woven with raised designs in bands. It is edged with a narrow frill.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 17/06/2026

Translation Tuesday! Very simple one: "Hat of crepe. Gown of levantine trimmed with self-fabric flounces." From the Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1818. hub.catalogit.app/search/genes... 🗃️🪡

Fashion plate showing a woman in a dark blue gown and flowered bonnet, holding a white shawl.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 13/06/2026

Pretend it's #FootwearFriday, because I have a lovely treat. This lone slipper is all that remains of a pair that must have been worn to a splendid party or two in the 1860s, likely with a gown in a matching shade of pink. hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun... 🗃️🪡

The toe of a pink kid shoe, embroidered with an oak branch, complete with acorns. There is a pink ribbon rosette on the vamp tab.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 12/06/2026

I didn't realize that I have access to the storage areas until late yesterday, so I made sure to go in today and do a bit of work there. 🗃️🪡

A tall storage unit with multiple rows of children's dresses on hangers.

A tall storage unit with two rows of women's gowns hanging on it.

A row of early 19th century soft corsets hanging on a rack.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 09/06/2026

I finished one Folk Knitting of Estonia sock, and now have started a much simpler and smaller sock. I figured that once I finish this I'll be ready to do another heavy colorwork project ...

A small tube of ribbing in a variegated pink, purple, and blue sock yarn on wooden sticks.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 08/06/2026

Here's a mid-19th century jug from Noah White's pottery in Utica, NY in the GCVM collection! hub.catalogit.app/genesee-coun...

Off-white stoneware jug marked "White's Utica" and painted with a bird.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 07/06/2026

Photographed these FIC clogs today - I found a piece of grey velveteen to use for a backdrop and draped it over a piece of cardboard. It's really giving Sears photo studio, which I think is because the pile reflects light oddly and looks kind of like clouds. hub.catalogit.app/search/genes...

A photo of a pair of black clogs with squared toes and ankle straps.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 22/05/2026

Belatedly adding an alt-text version of the picture because I try not to repost images without alt-text!

An evening dress of plum-colored satin with three-quarter-length sleeves; bodice is a surplice front with trim beaded and embroidered with zig-zags and triangles in contrasting colors. Natural waistline. The skirt is made rather plain, with the side fronts draped up to meet at center front at about knee level. On the right side of the image is a close-up of the beaded and embroidered trim.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 21/05/2026

I can't find the original post, but here's an early imitator from 2022.

A screencap of a tumblr post by DevilDaisies from November 16, 2022, reading "'bro where's your fucking whimsy' is such a good motto. I want to cross stitch it or something".

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 16/05/2026

Post a meme made by you. 🗃️🪡

A "silent protector" meme with the missiles labeled "dirt, oil, sweat, that kind of thing", the soldier labeled "body linens", and the sleeping child labeled "pretty clothes".

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 06/05/2026

Okay! One of my four patterns for Heritage Magazine is finished. I might neaten up the photo placements later - that's a new addition to my process that I wasn't sure exactly what to do with.

A very zoomed-out pattern diagram for a child's dress ca. 1838, with small color photos of the dress itself.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 04/05/2026

This fabulous swimsuit is hand-embellished with sequins! Designed and sold in a limited run by Rose Marie Reid in the late 1950s, it cost $50 - at the time, ads generally show prices of $10-$15, so this was a *very* special piece. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A skirted white bathing suit with halter top, decorated in stripes of red and off-white sequins.

A close-up of the sequin stripes, mostly red but turning to off-white near the bottom.

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Cassidy Percoco @mimicofmodes.com · 04/05/2026

This is another big WANT for me. The day cap on the left, dating to about 1830, is marked with the owner's name, "Sarah Smith" (for laundry purposes); the corded bonnet on the right is from the early Regency era. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A big, floppy white cotton cap with long lappets on the left; a modest bonnet with a long brim that curves right into the crown on the right.

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A brightly colored wedding dress from 1895, which comes with a photograph of the original owner in said dress - something you love to see in a museum collection. I hope/expect the auction winner gets the name of the wearer! bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A dark green satin gown with very full sleeves, a white lace capelet, and striped ivory ribbons running from the shoulders to the waist.

A sepia-toned photograph of a woman with dark hair wearing said dress, looking over her shoulder toward the camera.

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Ah! This piece in the auction (left) has an extremely similar construction as one at the Met (right). I had to look up the latter to see if it had been deaccessioned (although now I can see that it's a totally different print). bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A gown with short, flounced sleeves and a bodice that is gathered at top to a yoke and at bottom to a waistband. Made of a cotton printed with checked stripes and columns of floral sprigs.

A gown with short, flounced sleeves and a bodice that is gathered at top to a yoke and at bottom to a waistband. Made of a cotton printed with foliate motifs.

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The maker of this ca. 1863 day dress was doing some amazing things with the fabric: it's a plain patterned stripe, so everywhere you see diagonals breaking it up, that is clever piecing with the fabric on the bias. (I want to pattern it.) bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A day dress with high neckline, bishop sleeves, and full skirt, made out of a cotton with printed stripe.

Close-up of the front, showing the full sleeves and the way the front is cut with vertical panels alternating with bias ones.

Close-up of the back, showing the full sleeves and the way the back is cut with vertical panels alternating with bias ones.

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The thing that fascinates me about very plain silk gowns like this is how flexibly we can interpret them: this might have been anything from a shopgirl's best dress for Sundays to a wealthy woman's "sitting at home in the morning" outfit. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

Dress of dark green silk twill with a high neckline, center front closure, and long sleeves with fullness at the shoulder.

Close-up of the front of the bodice, showing the closure/opening off-center on the bodice front.

Close-up of one side of the back, showing the piping in the shoulder seam, armscye, and side-back seam.

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As I sit here in my bathrobe, I feel a kinship with the woman who originally wore this morning dress, which is the sort of thing one wore to breakfast in the Regency. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

Morning dress of white dimity with a ruffled collar, long sleeves with short oversleeves, and a ruffle down the center front and around the hem.

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Poodle skirts are a long-standing 1950s bobbysoxer costuming cliche, but we don't see them very often among extant pieces! One is signed "Salazar", and the other has a label from Kinneloa of California. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A black circle skirt with a white poodle holding a red rose on it, and a navy blue circle skirt with two white poodles playing tennis.

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Pulled this ca. 1905 skirt out of a multi-object lot. It would have made a spectacular layer on top of a more vibrantly colored silk skirt, softening it into a pastel. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A slightly trained Edwardian skirt made out of white lace.

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This Germaine Couture evening coat is a WOW! I would love to take a pattern from this, just to find out exactly how full those sleeves are. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A mannequin in a pinkish-orange silk coat with vast sleeves gathered into wide cuffs.

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Another really fantastic beaded 1920s evening dress! I think this one is made to *look* like it's fringed, but zooming it shows that these are actually vertical stripes of sewn-down beads. bid.augusta-auction.com/online-aucti...

A sleeveless evening dress beaded and embroidered in a diagonal grid over the torso, with silver beading that looks like fringe in swags down the skirt, and black ruffles set into the side seams.

A close-up of the bodice embellishment, with a point of the beaded "fringe".

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