iiinova — where your digital self keeps evolving

Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 01/10/2026

Micro striped clothing on camera goes all wavy and if they are high contrast enough trigger my vertigo. The effect has improved over the decades, but not enough to allow it on screen.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 01/10/2026

Can we please go back to the ban of micro stripes on camera? It only looks 15% better than the nausea inducing effect of yesteryear.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 30/09/2026

Dear YouTube: stop changing the size, font size, or language of the closed captions.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 20/09/2026

#knittinghottake It should be illegal, punishable with a heavy fine and community service, to use a big coat covering every design feature of the pattern in any of the photos meant to convince someone to get that pattern.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Math in the pattern means they added that to the chest measurement.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

And they are deciding what ease they are wearing it at. Hopefully consciously, but some people just say "for this designer I size up/down" or you don't see any mention of changes at all. It's helpful to see the intended ease in the pattern, but that is just to help you know that the

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

The important thing when learning to adjust things is you always were deciding the ease you liked best anyway. If you check the pictures by the knitters on ravelry, not the pictures for the pattern, you are usually going to see the same garment on many body types

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

The first thing to realize is there is way less length ease then width, and the amount of ease that's appropriate at the chest is drastically too big in the sleeves. Ease is the most negotiable factor, and probably the most likely to make you frustrated with adjusting knitting patterns.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Hey, everyone, another size adjustment pickle came to me. When you see the intended ease in a pattern, that isn't usually for the whole garment. Very few patterns with 6 inches of ease. It's usually just for the chest measurement or maybe hips if you are doing more than tops.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Difficult designs people can do when they put the blame where it belongs.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Left over at the top and bottom of the sleeve, and every decrease row guest gets a piece. Most of the time I reach people this it's pointing out that a bad teacher made them feel like they couldn't understand math, when the teacher was the problem. You'd be amazed at the complex and

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

With the final decrease end being rnd 80, with 5 rnds before the ribbing. While it takes some figuring, I promise if you can cut a sheet cake for everyone at a birthday party, you can do this. There were 16 people at my party, and my cake is 86 rnds long. There is a piece and a half of cake

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Area is 86 rnds. I need to get from 86 stitches to 52 stitches at the cuff. That is 32 stitches. Since the decreases are done 2 in a round, we need 16 decrease rnds over the 86 rnds. 16, times 5 is 80. There's a tiny bit of wiggle room, so starting to decrease at rnd 5, I decrease every 5 rnds

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

I pick up a few extra stitches at the corner of the underarm that are decreased out on the first few rounds. This means on rnd 3, I had 86 stitches. My first sleeve attempt I decrease area was 80 rows, but I didn't have enough ease. Yeah, as they knit, they will frog. My current sleeve decrease

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Figure out how many rows you have to do that decrease section. Of course different sleeve shapes come into play, but we are just going to measure from the underarm to the area you want to start the cuff, and determine the number of rounds it takes to get you there.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

The sleeve instructions in the pattern until I calculated my first sleeve attempt. This is one reason row gauge is as important as stitch gauge. You need to figure your desired width where you want your cuff to start. You need the length of the underarm to that point. Use the row gauge to

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Part of my transmission to the larger bust size without the yoke being unreasonable. I usually juggle additional sleeve increases in the yoke as well as adding to the underarm. Now, like most larger people, these extra inches of width don't come with extra length. I frankly didn't even read

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Don't listen to the lie that you only have to do bust darts to adjust sizes. That's good for people knitting around a 40 inch chest and below, but you have to transition to the correct full bust measurement if you want to feel good in the fit. The. Greater point is my sleeve adjustment is

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

I'm not sure that even works for the smaller sizes at this worsted weight gauge. Like a lot of larger people I need to add width to the biceps. Since this is a top down sweater I can add stitches to the underarm, which also helps my smaller size reach the desired full bust measurement.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

I am working on a pattern that does include my chest measurements, however I started with a smaller size and adjusted it to keep from drowning in the shoulders. But the sleeve decreases have the same decrease rate for every size. Everyone decreases at a very distant 11 rnds between decrease rnds.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

Let's just say when there are memes making fun of things models on plus sized patterns, I recognize some of them. There's been a great deal of improvement, but basically early plus sized patterns didn't do a good job. Sometimes design decisions were based on printing costs.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 19/09/2026

#plussizedknitting tips for sleeves. I'm not knitting a whole piece for this one, but thought I would still help. Not every plus sized pattern is the same quality. I hear very good things about a lot of designers, but I learned to knit before most of them.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 10/09/2026

I don't know if it really is meant to reflect that. Looks like braided grass to me, but you can duplicate the look with the wrong side of hairpin lace, which is done with a crochet hook. There's lots of types of grass braiding and weaving that this reminds me of.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 08/09/2026

Heels and toes to find which are more comfortable for you. And the more you do, the more confident you will be at changing things for your comfort. While I always recommend people get skill building books on techniques, I have not seen any in socks. I hope I have helped a little bit.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 08/09/2026

If you made it through altering a sock pattern, you are more than qualified to altar any pattern you want. I choose socks, because very few sock patterns are size inclusive. But there's more information available than ever before on these things. I recommend learning different

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 08/09/2026

Very well. Weave the ends. You can use a more spiral finish, also seen in hate crowns, but the SSK and K2TOG creates a toe that is very nicely balanced.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 08/09/2026

Another option is to add a couple more decrease sections at the top and bottom. This closes the toe much like the crown of a hat. Just SSK and K2TOG at 4, 5 or 6 places instead of 2. And repeat the decreases every other round.When 8 stitches remain, run the yarn tail through it, and secure it

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 08/09/2026

Final #knitting plus size socks segment. The biggest problem with adjusting the toe is decreasing more stitches in roughly the same 2 inches most socks give. You really can't begin the toe further back, without discomfort. The easiest way is to decrease each row instead of every other row.

Close image of the toe of the sock. The background is pale wood. The lowest stripe color is light blue, then a thin stripe of yellow, next is blue-black, next orange, then a thinner stripe of variegated, and light blue. The variegated stripe is made with the other colors except yellow. The toe is knit with a different color from the rest of the sock. It is a black color with spots of grey, blue, and reddish brown.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

Finish the sock from stash, because I set aside that yarn first, the socks will still match.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

Also, yeah, it seems I don't have enough yarn in each of the colors. This is why I separated the balls before starting, though I did use some of sock 2's yarn for helical knitting in the variegated row. There might be enough for me to finish with the other colors, but I will find something to

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

How anyone can think these socks don't need a gusset, especially since the toe up version does have one.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

For my foot gusset, I just decreased every other row where the heel ended as usual. Please keep in mind my struggle with this pattern wasn't because of my sock adjustments, as by the time I get to the ankle, my foot fits a normal pattern size. I also read the other sizes, and don't understand

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

While decreasing the heel gusset, decrease the top triangle gusset in a pattern that creates another triangle, closing the diamond. This was done in a Cat Bordhi in a book ages ago, in a pattern that put the gusset on top instead of along the heel.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

Measurement, I would add a diamond shaped gusset to the top of the foot, increasing in a similar way to the heel, in a triangle shape as the heel is created. It probably won't be the same number of stitches as the heel, so keep your gauge and that wide foot measurement in mind.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

Back to adjusting a sock, as mentioned before, you can do short rows in the heel with German short rows or wrap and turns out consuming stitches. At the end of the heel turn like that, you will still have the stitches added creating the heel. If you still need more width for that wider foot

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

And had thousands of projects on ravelry with most people not mentioning anything wrong. I didn't read every project notes, but people were clearly unraveling to do a heel flap and gusset or a short row heel without any notes. I got the toe up version, and read the pattern. It has a gusset.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

This one I created a gusset. Not gonna lie, I spent some time hyper focused on this situation. 2 different designers said there was no need for a gusset, but in my case that was 18 extra stitches. The pattern from a book had to have been tech edited and the ravelry pattern was tested

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

And the math doesn't math for that. I checked, and it's for all the sizes. The ravelry projects show 2 main ways people are compensating. 1 is continuing the heel turn rows consuming the extra stitches, and 1 is creating a gusset. Since the first triangle heel sock I added more short rows,

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 07/09/2026

Another #knitting thread on adjusting a sock for plus size feet. First, I have to say, there's gotta be a flaw in the pattern. I previously knit a similar sock, and had the same thing happen, and chose this sock to see where the problem was. Basically, there's no gusset in the pattern.

The heel and gusset of a striped sock. The heel is a ribbed triangle shaped. The bottom of the picture is the keg of the sock, with variegated yarn. The variegated yarn is made with the other stripe colors in the sock. The next stripe is light blue, followed by yellow, blue-black, and orange. The stripe sequence repeats after that. Near the top, a much thinner stripe of yellow is there, with just the beginning of the blue -black stripe.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 06/09/2026

Thousands of people have done this sock on ravelry, and no one else is bitching that if you add 34 stitches for the heel, you can't get back to the stitch count if you only eliminate 16 stitches.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 06/09/2026

I'm so damn angry at this heel. The only reason I am doing this pattern is I did a similar heel, and the same thing happened. Different designers, same instructions. Over 25 years knitting experience.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

I really wish my keyboard would let me type "sock" without an argument that changes it several times.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

This does add gusset stitches. To accommodate them, you just add decrease rows to that foot measurement. If you want a shorter gusset, there's no reason to not decrease the gusset each row instead of every other row

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

The same as the ankle circumference. I'll give more details about the toes when I finish the gusset. Most top down heel turns decrease stitches with the short rows. If you have a wide heel, you don't have to do this. For a rounder heel, just add stitch with each short row.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

That's how many rows deep the heel is. If this feels like the heel flap will be too long, sneak in a few make 1 increases when picking up the gusset stitches. When you decrease the gusset, you want to decrease to the circumference under the toes. If you have a more wide foot, this might not be

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

Should still be equal to half the stitches at the ankle. The measurement around the heel to the top of the foot gives you how many extra stitches you need for the gusset. Subtract the ankle measurement from that larger measurement. Multiply by your stitch gauge. For a traditional heel flap

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

Most patterns work in a pretty even system. The increase for the gusset will be about the same number of stitches for half the sock. For top down socks that number of stitches is added with the length of the heel flap. I'm less familiar with the heel type of this sock, but the finished numbers

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

You need to measure the length of the foot, the depth of the heel, the circumference of the ankle, around the heel and top of the foot, and the wide part under the toes at the ball of the foot. If the ankle and wide part under the toes match within reason, the math is easier.

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Kitchener Witch @kitchenerwitch.bsky.social · 05/09/2026

Because of this, I can usually resume following the pattern instructions when I reach that point. If your ankle and foot are still wider than the pattern, we have to consider some pattern math for the foot. This is more complicated, then the leg, but still doable.

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