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Charlie Allen Bespoke

@charlieallenb.bsky.social
533 followers 472 following 220 posts

Menswear Designer Bespoke Tailor and Shirtmaker Cloth, Chalk & Football

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Reposted by Charlie Allen Bespoke
derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 05/04/2025
Gitman's oxford button-down shirts, made in the USA December 2024: $205 April 2025: $235
A screenshot from Internet Archive, which shows what Gitman's website looked like on December 11, 2024. The product page for Gitman's Blue Oxford shirts shows a price of $205. The same page on April 5, 2025 shows the same product being sold for $235. Nothing else about the shirt has changed.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
If your aesthetic is driven by homophobia, you'll always be chasing the latest code, unaware of how those styles landed in your wardrobe. Instead, I encourage you take inspiration from all of culture, including menswear and womenswear, and create an aesthetic that expresses you.
A screenshot of the original Twitter poster who wrote: "Wearing women’s clothes has never been in style, homo"
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Some men can wear dainty items like Belgian loafers—which feature a little bow—and look *more* masculine. Others can wear the same item and look a bit feminine. How gender is expressed through style is complex. It's not just about the item; it's also about body and personality.
A man wears black suede Belgian loafers with a blue denim trucker jacket and blue flared jeans. A man wears brown suede Belgian loafers with a blue kurta and patched-up tan chinos. A man wears suede leopard patterned Belgian loafers with a black graphic t-shirt and blue jeans. A man wears black suede Belgian loafers with a black velvet blazer, blue turtleneck, and grey houndstooth trousers. He also has big sunglasses with yellow tinted lenses.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Few people fit these cartoonish binary representations of gender—most people are on the gender spectrum. The issue of "men in womenswear" is less about thinking of which styles are "legitimate vs taboo," but rather considering how style can be expressed.
Lenny Kravitz wearing flared blue jeans, a leopard print top, big sunglasses, and a black silk neckerchief.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
In 1973, feminist scholar Carolyn G. Heilbrun wrote an article for the New York Times titled "Androgynous World," which encouraged readers to think of gender as a spectrum. "[B]etween the quarterback and the cheerleader, we have lost too much of our humanity," she cautioned.
A screenshot from the New York Times article. It reads:

"For the hostile, who in some sense feel threatened by this unfamiliar idea, further assurance is required. Androgyny does not mean the loss of all distinctions; those who are terrified by the word probably envision everyone, man and woman, dressed indistinguishably, like members of the Chinese Army. Those who are terrified further assume that in robbing us of clearly delineated sexual models, androgyny will rob us of all order and sanity. If we are to have more than two accepted role models—in youth, the quarterback and the cheerleader, in later life, the corporation manager and the corporation manager's wife—will we not in fact be diving off the edge of an ordered world into the abyss?

To which one must answer: between the quarterback and the cheerleader, we have lost too much of our humanity; we have come close to losing humanity altogether. What is more, the possibilities for companionship between men and women can only be heightened by androgynous energy. For androgyny implies not only that couples may find or create their own pattern of passion or conversation, but that marriage may become joyful for those who are neither quarters backs nor cheerleaders and do not now wish to play those roles."A screenshot from the same article. It reads:

"The received ideas of masculine and feminine have operated in three destructive ways. First, by insisting on the masculinity of men and the femininity of women, we have locked individuals into prisons of gender, where their response is likely to be either a mindless acquiescence, or violence and rebellion. Second, the overly defined distinction between the received ideas of masculinity and femininity has brought about a sexual polarization in our society that deprives both men and women of their common humanity in relation to one another, and has separated what should have been joined. Third, by placing in power those men at the most “masculine” end of the spectrum of human possibility, we have endangered our own survival. My hope for the idea of androgyny is that it will not become another fad, briefly puffed up by the media, but soon mentioned only to groans of boredom. That is the danger. But if, as I believe, the androgynous ideal reaches back into the very roots of our literature, religions and ancient wisdom, it will prevail. Present at the birth of every religion, submerged or subverted in most religions thereafter, androgyny hints at a new equilibrium in an unbalanced world. Those who are unmoved by an appeal to humanity's mythic origins might reflect upon the undeniable impact of modern technology, which has freed the sexes from biologically differentiated social and economic roles and from the behavioral patterns traditionally associated with them."
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Reposted by Charlie Allen Bespoke
derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
There's nothing inherently feminine about Kendrick's jeans (IMO, the longer length suits the style of the outfit). It's true that Hedi Slimane, who designed these Celine jeans, said he originally made them for women. But then he said they're unisex. So now what?
Kendrick Lamar wearing flared Celine jeans at the Super Bowl. A screenshot from Hedi Slimane's Instagram. He writes:

"KENDRICK LAMAR’S HEDI SLIMANE FLARED JEANS FOR CELINE . THE SUPER BOWL 2025.

In his Spring/Summer 2020 collection for Celine, Hedi Slimane, who launched the skinny jeans in the late 90’s at YSL and Dior Homme, introduced his first flared jeans as a tribute to Serge Gainsbourg. These jeans were showcased during his Celine fashion show on June 23, 2019.

Hedi Slimane’s “Serge” flared jeans were succeeded by the “Marco” flared jeans, which he initially designed for women for the Bibliothèque Nationale show. However, Slimane’s creations are inherently unisex, reflecting a design philosophy that transcends traditional gender boundaries.

Kendrick Lamar donned Hedi Slimane’s flared jeans for Celine during his performance at the Super Bowl 2025 Halftime Show, highlighting the enduring influence of Slimane’s designs."
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
It's difficult to address the original poster's criticism because the very *coding* of clothing can change over time. Flares were originally worn by sailors and cowboys, then Coco Chanel, and then hippies. The codes can change depending on who's wearing something.
Two images of sailors and cowboys wearing flared pants. Coco Chanel on the beach wearing flared pants. 1970s hippies wearing flared pants. There appears to be men and women in the photo, although the image only shows the people from the waist down.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Take a closer look at male politicians next time they appear in photos or on television. Many are wearing make-up. I'm not talking about just powder, which is sensibly used to make skin look matte under bright lights, but beautifying products like blush, bronzer, and concealer.
Donald Trump wearing heavy make-up.Matt Gaetz wearing heavy make-up.Ron DeSantis wearing heavy make-up.Gavin Newsom wearing heavy make-up.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
In the last 30 years, skinny jeans have moved from "womenswear" to "androgynous" to "hip guy" to "passé." As I've said, it's ironic that some of the most critical voices in today's gender wars are wearing a cut that was once seen as a sign of declining masculinity in the West.
Matt Gaetz at the Barbie premiere. He's wearing a pink sport coat with black skinny jeans and black monk-strap shoes. Matt Walsh at the premiere of "What is a Woman?" He's wearing a small blue sport coat, grey t-shirt, black skinny jeans, and tan derbies.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
This silhouette was then made desirable through bands such as The Strokes and non-gender-conforming hipsters. Men who couldn't afford Dior jeans raided the women's aisle for their denim—a move Levi's celebrated in 2011 when they released their "ex-girlfriend cut" for men.
Members of the band The Strokes. Two of the members are wearing skinny jeans with low-cut v-neck t-shirts. A screenshot of the Levi's website. The product page shows the "Ex-Girlfriend Jean" in black.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Back when he was the creative head of Dior, Hedi Slimane made waves by releasing skinny jeans for men, which he later said was an intentional celebration of androgyny, as that type of cut was only worn by women at the time.
A photo of a man during a Dior runway show and a woman on the street. Both are wearing skinny, low rise jeans.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
"But Derek," you protest, "these are pretty niche. Surely normal guys were never wearing womenswear." Not true. We first have to again recognize that codes change over time. For instance, the slim fit trend today started with non-conforming men.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Radical drag never took off because ... well, it was too radical for the mainstream. But it did influence protopunk bands such as The New York Dolls, who performed in feminine dresses, long hair, and glitter-glam make-up. And they influenced the glam rock bands of the 1980s.
Members of the New York Dolls in tight pants, big hairstyles, and make-up.Members of Motley Crue in similar attire at the New York Dolls.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Taking inspiration from transgender sex workers, many gay men adopted "radical drag," which blurred gender lines by combining extreme symbols of masculinity and femininity. Gold lamé dresses were worn with work boots; pink tutus were paired with Army jackets.
Some men in what appears to be a 1970s photo wearing womenswear. They are strolling down the street.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
IMO, real fashion is not about celebrities—it's about what happens on the ground. One of the most important moments of "men in womenswear" happened in the wake of the Stonewall Riots, which made many gay men tired of hiding in the closet.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
In more recent memory, Kanye wore a Celine blouse at 2011 Coachella. I can tell you that this was widely celebrated and seen as stylish among people interested in menswear. Even Travis Scott later copied the look.
Kanye West at the 2011 Coachella. He's standing in front of a mic while while wearing a silky Celine blouse in pink, blue, green, and cream. He's also wearing slim jeans and gold chains. The blouse is barely buttoned, so much of his chest is showing. Travis Scott in a nearly identical outfit, except he has a white t-shirt underneath the Celine blouse. He's also wearing a diamond studded Cuban link chain, rather than just a bunch of gold chains like Kanye.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Similarly, Prince was known for his ruffled shirts and dramatic lace outfits. He reportedly had over 3,000 pairs of bespoke shoes. These fantastical, steel-bar-reinforced booties were made with glimmering studs, custom zipper pulls, and embroideries.
Prince in a double-breasted suit and small booties. A pair of Prince's booties. They are made from green textured material in a pattern that mimics leaves. A pair of Prince's booties. They appear to be made from a Versace patterned satin with a custom zipper pull (made in the image of his logo). A white pair of Prince's booties. The heels are studded.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
But there are plenty of male style icons who wore women's clothing. David Bowie, particularly during his Ziggy Stardust era, blurred gender lines by wearing women's blouses, jumpsuits and high-heeled boots.
David Bowie with red hair, red lipstick, make-up, and some kind of shiny, quilted black top. David Bowie pushing a stroller while wearing a blouse, floppy hat, and very wide legged pants. David Bowie wearing a blue boa scarf and a knitted garment (perhaps a dress?) along with matching knitted sleeves. David Bowie in a white jumpsuit and high-heeled shoes.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Plenty of things started on the womenswear side of the aisle before crossing over into men's. Prior to the 20th century, men carried pocket watches and only women wore wristwatches. The humble t-shirt began as the top of union suits, which was once considered women's underwear.
An illustration of some men surrounding Queen Elizabeth. One appears to be adjusting her watch. The caption reads: For Queen Elizabeth was made the first wrist watch. An old newspaper ad for women's union suits. There are three illustrations of a woman. She's wearing a union suit, which is a one-piece garment worn as underwear. There's a bit of lace at the top.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
We should first recognize that gender codes are socially constructed. Clothing is not inherently masculine or feminine—codes are contextual and can change over time. Aristocratic men once wore bright red heels. Then they became womenswear until that notion was challenged again.
A painting of King Louis XIV of France. He's wearing an opulent outfit made of furs, lace, and gold. He's also wearing white buckled shoes with a high red heel. A close-up of the white buckled shoes with a high-red heel. There appears to be a red lace at the top of the shoes. Fashion influencer Luka Sabbat wearing a black leather suit and black boots with a very high heel. James Baldwin wearing a white, short-sleeved button-down shirt, white cotton pants, and brown Cuban heeled side-zip boots. He also has chunky gold and turquoise jewelry (bracelet and ring).
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 16/02/2025
Not true. I'll give you some examples of when styles crossed over from womenswear to menswear, and how men have worn straight-up womenswear or just feminine styles in cool ways. 🧵
A screenshot from Twitter. 

The original tweet reads: "Rapper Kenderick Lamar wore size 29 women's jeans to Super Bowl LIX." The tweet garnered over a thousand replies, most negative. 

I (Derek Guy) screenshotted that tweet and wrote: "so funny to see history repeat itself. men who wear slim fit and stretch denim—both of which were once considered strictly for women—criticizing kendrick for wearing flares bc they were on the women's aisle. in ten years, you'll be in flares clutching pearls about something else"

Then another user replied to my tweet, saying: "Wearing women’s clothes has never been in style, homo."
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 20/02/2025
I've been writing a series of essays for PBS on men whose style I admire. The latest is about James Baldwin, a man who knew how to sing through clothes. www.pbs.org/wnet/america...
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 21/02/2025
men who dressed like this from 2008 - 2012 had preppy menswear blogs
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 25/02/2025
Joann had a sprawling retail footprint and was a victim of the slow US decline toward cheaper, more disposable clothing, but they also suffered a blow during Trump's first term. Trump's 2018 tariffs increased cost of imports and US equivalents were too expensive for customers.
Headline from The New York Times: "Joann, 80-Year-Old Crafts and Fabrics Retailer, Will Close All Stores. The announcement that the chain would close all 800 of its stores in 49 states comes after a period of financial turmoil."
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 01/03/2025
american masculinity is so amazing. caring about clothes as a man apparently makes you "gay" but our position on geopolitics totally depends on whether you wear a suit
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 08/03/2025
I chatted with Illia Ponomarenko, a Ukrainian war reporter, about why Zelenskyy doesn't wear a suit. www.politico.com/news/magazin...
politico.com
The Real Reason Zelenskyy Doesn’t Wear a Suit
There’s a deeper reason the Ukrainian president eschews American-style formalwear.
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 10/03/2025
I've been writing a series for PBS about men whose style I admire. This week's entry is George Plimpton, arguably the last American to dress in that old patrician style that has been replaced by tech titan outfits. www.pbs.org/wnet/america...
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 14/03/2025
I wrote an article for Mr. Porter exploring whether style can be timeless. I argue that it can, but timelessness doesn’t require sticking to suits or playing it safe. Instead, it comes from self-knowledge, confidence in taste, and understanding culture. www.mrporter.com/en-gb/journa...
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derek guy @dieworkwear.bsky.social · 24/03/2025
me reading national security secrets bc i've been accidentally added to a group chat
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Charlie Allen Bespoke @charlieallenb.bsky.social · 22/03/2025
Arsenal make contact over "brilliant" £75m+ forward with club open to sale www.msn.com/en-gb/sport/... #arsenalfam.💯
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Charlie Allen Bespoke @charlieallenb.bsky.social · 22/03/2025
Arsenal make contact over "brilliant" £75m+ forward with club open to sale www.msn.com/en-gb/sport/... #arsenalfam.💯
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Tv and Movie news @movieandtvnews.bsky.social · 17/03/2025
Netflix shares truth behind Adolescence episode where Stephen Graham drives a van while acting
oyequotes.com
Netflix shares truth behind Adolescence episode where Stephen Graham drives a van while acting
Starring the likes of Stephen Graham and Erin Doherty, the miniseries is made up of four hour-long episodes that are filmed in continuous one-hour long takes, following a 13-year-old boy who has been arrested on suspicion of murder. One took to X, asking a film account: 'Please watch Adolescence (Netflix) and tell us how it's ALL done! Especially episode 4 (driving in the van). This show is blowing my mind!' While it looks like he's driving the van in the series while acting, this obviously isn't the case, and with no cuts, there isn't an opportunity to hook it up to another vehicle to do the steering. A camera can be seen in front of the van's windshield, capturing the character's movements and blocking their view - another reason why the British actor couldn't have been driving. Speaking about episode one in the behind-the-scenes video, Graham said that the episodes as seeing ‘a swan glide gracefully across water, but its legs are flapping like mad’. Footage across all the behind-the-scenes videos reveals meticulous movements from camera operators to ensure they keep the scene going and get the shot they want, handing cameras off to each other up the stairs, for example. It's a stressful way of shooting, with a lot of planning and rehearsal required to get it all right, though Cooper previously revealed that one of his favourite moments came from a bit of improvisation with Doherty. Joshua Nair is a journalist at LADbible. Born in Malaysia and raised in Dubai, he has always been interested in writing about a range of subjects, from sports to trending pop culture news. After graduating from Oxford Brookes University with a BA in Media, Journalism and Publishing, he got a job freelance writing for SPORTbible while working in marketing before landing a full-time role at LADbible. Unfortunately, he's unhealthily obsessed with Manchester United, which takes its toll on his mental and physical health. Daily.
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Charlie Allen Bespoke @charlieallenb.bsky.social · 17/03/2025
Mikel Arteta ready to trigger €58 million release of long term Arsenal target www.msn.com/en-gb/sport/... #arsenalfamily.❣️
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Charlie Allen Bespoke @charlieallenb.bsky.social · 17/03/2025
Mikel Arteta ready to trigger €58 million release of long term Arsenal target www.msn.com/en-gb/sport/... #arsenalfamily.❣️
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Gooners R us @goonersrus.bsky.social · 04/03/2025
OK I'm well and truly over the disappointment of our league campaign and im now properly excited about what can happen in the CL... I've got a good feeling in my bones about tonight #COYG
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Joma©️ @jomac08.bsky.social · 04/03/2025
Not being negative towards Mikel because I really believe in him. That said, seeing 4 left sided defenders on the bench for tonight isn’t a good look. Not to mention the 2 keepers. Fingers crossed for the @arsenalfc.bsky.social tonight @arsenal-family.bsky.social #arsenal #gooners #gunners
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Paul @paul-wallis.bsky.social · 04/03/2025
Never doubt Odegaard, he’s been absolutely brilliant tonight 👌👏 #PSVARS @arsenalfc.bsky.social @arsenal-family.bsky.social
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Oliver Adams @oliveradams.bsky.social · 04/03/2025
Arsenal in 7th heaven, a magnificent 7, lucky number 7 etc etc. Just fantastic, so thoroughly deserved for a team that tries and works so hard. Really hope this sparks us to finish the season strongly and make sure that we are there just incase Liverpool collapse. #COYG #northlondonforever 💪🏻
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FPLGoonerJen @fplgoonerjen.bsky.social · 05/03/2025
Arsenal season ticket holders & red & silver members …..what do you think about the changes next season Arsenal emailed us about today ? #arsenal #members #seasonticketholders
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Kay 🌿 @nutmegiwobi.bsky.social · 05/03/2025
Big test for Saliba this season would if we face agains Real Madrid. Saliba vs Mbappe. Not his biggest season but he’s been most reliable and stable like always. It’s an huge opponent and defense stance for Saliba. Always gonna be massive test for our defense players, but we know Saliba qualities
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sweet summer child @emn0.bsky.social · 05/03/2025
If anyone is willing to buy and ship this lot of UK exclusive merch to me I’ll pay very handsomely for your trouble. Thank you.
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Arsenal Family @arsenal-family.bsky.social · 04/03/2025
Matchday #PSVARS Meet 300+ #GUNNERS here #ArsenalFamily 1. Like ❤️ , Share ♻️ , Comment ✅ 2. SWIPE ⬇️ to the bottom to find new #Arsenal friends 3. Follow Back ⭐ MOST IMPORTANT ⭐ New starter pack featuring #GOONERS who follow this account. 📢 Most Follow Back Arsenal fans go.bsky.app/9KLZgzB
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💫Foxy💫 @getyourfoxyback.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
🦊 Happy FriYay 🦊 🦋Meet and Greet🦋 Let’s connect and build a strong community Comment 🗣️ on this post and see who is here. Say hello 👋 & give them a follow Share a funny meme ✨Please VET first ✨ Who you follow Together we can build an 💙AMAZING 💙community We WILL be ok Luv ya all Foxy 🦊
1908 Cincinnati Mayor Mark Breith stands before city council and announces that, "women are not physically fit to operate

1955 Musical "Peter Pan", starring Mary Martin broadcast live on NBC attracts a then record 65 million viewers

1965 Alabama state troopers and 600 black protesters clash in Selma during "Bloody Sunday", protesters, including future congressman John Lewis beaten and hospitalized

1972 "The First Time Ever I Saw Your Face" single written by Ewan MacColl, released by Roberta Flack (Billboard Song of the Year 1972)

1990 3 passengers killed & 162 injured as subway train derails (Philadelphia)

2011 Charlie Sheen is fired from the CBS sitcom "Two and a Half Men

2022 Global death toll from Covid-19 passes 6 million according to Johns Hopkins figures, with 57% of the world's population fully vaccinated
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BBC Radio 6 Music Now Playing Bot (Unofficial) @bbcradio6musicbot.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
BBC Radio 6 Music Lauren Laverne Now Playing Orbital Chime
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JavaPeg @javapeg.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
Was going through my pin feed and this article holds up amazingly well.
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Candice Frederick @candicefrederick.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
I struggled through Seven Veils. Another film that has interesting themes and a bad plot. Amanda Seyfried tries her best to uplift a film about a female theater director tasked with helming a show that unlocks her own trauma. The character is interesting in theory but not in execution. Out today
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🩵JoJo📎 @thejojoyouknow.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
Unfuckingbelievable. In Defense Secretary Pete Hegseth's quest to nix all diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) content, some photos on the Pentagon's website and online posts appear to be marked for deletion just because they include the word "gay"-regardless of what the context is.-Daily Beast
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BBC Radio 1Xtra Now Playing Bot (Unofficial) @bbcradio1xtrabot.bsky.social · 07/03/2025
BBC Radio 1Xtra DJ Day Day Now Playing Sasha Keable WHY
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