Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 17/07/2026We have been hard at work spinning this week! Tomorrow to the dye baths, and next week weaving! 030
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 12/07/2026Tomorrow 16 pre-college students begin to tackle ancient textiles! 061
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 13/05/2025Project 6: Ajax researched the use of symbolism in the worship of Athena, thinking about the designs on the Panathenaian peplos. He wove himself a cloth and embroidered on symbols of Athena: owl, serpents, olives, and a spider. He is taking his work to Greece this summer to visit her temples! 030
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 12/05/2025Project 5: Simon focused his dye exploration on indigotin specifically, researching indigo- and woad-derived indigo dyes compared to murex. He dyed a cotton shirt and wool roving in an indigo vat he prepared, using the same dye as Iris. Cf. the range of colors between Iris's black and Simon's blue! 110
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 11/05/2025Project 4: Iris was curious about the color-fastness of natural dyes compared to modern acid dyes. She used madder, turmeric, and indigo and compared their wear after various types of washing and UV exposure. Check out how strongly black indigo can be when concentrated! 130
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 07/05/2025Project 3: Creusa studied the interaction between geometric motifs on home objects like vases and weaving patterns. Her piece, woven on a table loom, is an imagined "practice piece" of a young Athenian girl, learning to weave and copying the patterns on the items around her. 140
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 04/05/2025Sorry for repost! I forgot I made a thread for the projects 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 04/05/2025Callisto was interested in testing natural dyes on linen and wool (felted merino patches). Her gorgeous yellow is the expensive and prized saffron, and you can see why! The purple and pink are logwood and madder, and she mordanted with gallnut and alum. The new-world logwood replaces expensive murex 120
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 02/05/2025Project 1: Nausicaa has been sailing all of her life, and brought her expertise into her final project on ancient sails. She wove sails herself out of linen thread and rigged them to a 3D printed trireme. Note the reinforced webbing over the joins - real sails are too big to weave in 1 piece. 110
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 02/05/2025Students explored one aspect of ancient textile production in a final project with a creative component supported by a research paper. In this thread, I feature their wonderful work (using pseudonyms for the students) 🧵 111
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 02/05/2025A wonderful feature of our course on WashU Classics! classics.wustl.edu/news/revivin...classics.wustl.eduReviving Ancient Threads: WashU Students Weave the Past into the PresentIn a vibrant celebration of craft, scholarship, and experimentation, students in 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 01/05/2025Yesterday we had a very successful studio show where students showed off their work from the semester and their final project progress to guests. Stay tuned here for features on each of the amazing final projects as they are completed! 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/04/2025Stay tuned for a bunch of posts about the magnificent final projects that are being finished up! And if you happen to be at WashU, check out our upcoming studio show! 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/04/2025Our last class today 🥹Another round of student presentations, and then we had a bit of time at the end for takeaways from the course. Students shared their appreciation for the labor that went into textiles, their new skills like spinning and sewing, their enjoyment of the studio structure, and more 120
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 06/04/2025Not surprising to hear from somebody called "ArchaeoPoo" XD 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 06/04/2025That's a nice warping time. For the weighted loom, I prepared a warp for them ahead of time with a tablet woven starting band, and in class we just lashed it to the cloth bar, tied on the weights, and knit the heddles, which took most of our time. 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 06/04/2025totally! feel free to email me at b.kamens@wustl.edu 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 04/04/2025As far as I know, we don't have any reference to that particular method (though I could be wrong!) But I did show my students a video of Gaelic waulking in class (and one of Korean fulling, drumming with sticks). 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 04/04/2025In this week's studio we learned how to hand sew and made some ancient outfits for models both big and small. 020
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 02/04/2025We also looked at some of the remarkable preserved textiles from Egypt. These are three pieces from the Louvre collections: A long pleated linen tunic from 2035-1875 BCE, a short linen shirt from 800-540BCE, and a wool shirt from Roman Egypt, 320-430 CE. 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 02/04/2025We have finished making our textiles and move on to their uses. This week is clothing! We read a chapter of Women's Work and one from Lee's Body, Dress, and Identity and talked about what messages clothing can send. We looked at tons of art of ancient clothing and tried to understand construction. 110
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/03/2025before and after fulling. You can definitely see the difference! 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/03/2025Today's studio was fulling and felting. We used warm water and a variety of methods of friction creation to full the fabric we wove previously and to felt colored roving. We stuck with water and dishsoap, nobody wanted to try urine ;) 220
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/03/2025Heat + water + agitation + wool = felt, so it's tricky to dye roving and keep it usable for spinning. I have been spinning a bit from my cochineal dyed roving, and while it's harder to draft, it's not impossible! It does stain my hands a brilliant pink as I go. 4/4 060
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/03/2025One you have an extract, you can get dyeing! The cochineal produced a surprising lovely pink, the logwood a great purple, and the madder a paler orange, though all are 'billed' as 'red' dyes. The osage produces the expected yellow. 3/ 150
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/03/2025First you apply a mordant to the fiber to help the dye bond with the fiber and stay fast even through washing. For wool, alum is a common ancient and modern mordant. Meanwhile, you create dye extracts by cooking the dyestuffs in water and straining off the liquid repeatedly 2/ 120
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 25/03/2025While the instructor was off frolicking at CAMWS, students did a take-home #dyeing studio using natural dyes from Love of Colour online shop. Students used alum as a mordant on wool roving and yarn. 1/ 130
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 18/03/2025This week is all about COLOR! We read Barber on dyes and Spantidaki on colors and talked especially about two of the most prized and symbolically-loaded dyes in the ancient world: sea-purple and saffron. 020
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 07/03/2025Thursday we wrapped up weaving - students took turns on the warp-weighted loom, learned to finish off their woven pieces, and some tried out tablet weaving. Lots of great stuff coming off the cardboard looms, including pieces woven with their hand-spun yarn! 180
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 05/03/2025Exit ticket: How do we know that the ancient Greeks wove patterned textiles? 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 05/03/2025Today we read "Textile Weaves: The Beginnings" + "And Penelope?" from Prehistoric Textiles. In class we looked at various swatches of modern fabrics to see if we could identify their weaves and we walked through how Barber argues for Penelope weaving a pictorial cloth for Laertes. 220
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025It took us almost our whole 80 minutes to assemble the loom, tie on the weights, and knit the heddles. At the end we got a bit of time to weave, and next week we will weave a lot more! Meanwhile, students worked on their own projects on cardboard looms, which are looking great! 6/6 040
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025Heddles are done and working, time to weave! One student passes a bobbin of yarn through the open shed, another beats it upwards with a weaving sword. Then another pulls forward on the heddle bar to change the shed, the yarn is passed through in the other direction, heddle bar is released, etc. 5/ 150
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025Next step is the most time-consuming: string heddles are wound around each of the warp threads handing behind the shed bar and attached to a heddle bar. Sally Pointer has a YouTube tutorial on how to do this which is great! 4/ 130
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025Step 1 in class was for students to lash the starter band to the cloth beam and then tie on the loom weights. These weights were purchased from www.reannagteine.com/Products/Fib... . Each one had a string loop tied through its hole which four warp threads are then tied around. 3/ 130
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025I had already prepared a warp for us by tablet weaving a starter band, leaving long loops for its weft, and then dividing those into a front and back shed (every other warp thread in each group) and groups of four warp threads to be tied to each weight. 2/ 120
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 28/02/2025This afternoon students continued working on their small personal #weaving projects, and we set up and used a full-size #warp-weighted #loom! Thread with lots more pics and a description of the steps involved 1/ 170
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 26/02/2025Today students were knitting, crocheting, spinning, and weaving(!) during lecture, while also asking great questions. 001
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 26/02/2025This week is the WARP-WEIGHTED LOOM!! We looked at tons of images of warp-weighted looms and learned to identify all of the different parts. Exit ticket: What's one weaving technique or loom type you want to try? 120
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 19/02/2025Students know this class is a place where they can do their crafts to keep hands busy during lecture. I like getting to see what they're working on as I teach: this week we had one knitter, one crocheter, one spinner, and one embroiderer! 010
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 19/02/2025First week of WEAVING! We learned what weaving is and what a loom is, and explored the ancient backstrap loom, ground loom, vertical two-beam loom, tablet weaving, and sprang. On Thursday we will start weaving on our own DIY cardboard looms, and next week will be all about the warp-weighted loom 042
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 13/02/2025Studio was lovely today - so lovely I forgot to take pictures! Students continued to spin and learned how to ply and finish their yarn. I read the song of the spinning Fates in Catullus 64 and we mirrored them - spinning while telling each other stories 000
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 12/02/2025Lecture today on spinning in literature. We read selections from Homer, Herodotus, Xenophon, Erinna, Theocritus, and the Batrachomyomachia. Spinning is strongly associated with women throughout, but has different connotations in the hands of elite women, free women, and enslaved women. 031
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 10/02/2025Take the whorl off your spindle and you've got a spool of yarn, ready to ply or (more often in a classical Greek context) use as a "shuttle" in your weaving. 020
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 05/02/2025Our desks look about the same right now haha. Looking forward to hearing more about how this class goes! 011
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 04/02/2025Supply spotlight: Roman ring #distaff, 3D-printed at WashU's tech den. This is based on a surviving bone distaff now housed at the Louvre. The ring goes around the pinky, fiber is wrapped around the shaft, and then kept out of the way in hand during spinning. 031
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 03/02/2025Students are practicing between studio sessions with some store bought roving to start. I'm doing a bit of spinning with some washed #wool we combed ourselves in class. This (coopworth?) is making a rough thread but the loose top is quite easy to draft. #Spinning 041
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 31/01/2025First studio day of spindle spinning. Students learned the basics of drafting and discovered just how hard it is to pick up this skill! We have three weeks just on spinning so plenty of time to practice. Students also got to pick up some supplies for the rest of the semester. 090
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 29/01/2025A small selection of spindle whorls of the ancient med. across time and space. Spinning is fun, and for ancient folks indispensable, but spinning on a beautiful spindle is an extra joy that has persisted for thousands of years. All pics NYC Met collections. 1136
Ancient Mediterranean Textile Production @wustltextiles.bsky.social · 29/01/2025Intro to spinning! Students tried to make string out of wool with just their hands - many figured out quickly to wind their finished thread around pens or to ply their thread to balance it. Tech evolution in real time! Exit ticket: How does the spindle make string production easier/more efficient? 001