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James Moar

@jamesmoar.bsky.social
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
That was my last full day in Denmark, flying back to London tomorrow and home the day after.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Dessert was a traditional Danish dessert, æblekage. It’s stewed apple topped with cream, and restaurant menu translations disagree about whether it’s a cake, a stew or a crumble.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Tenderloin stew with paprika, bacon and sausage for dinner (no lunch today).
Container consisting of two high-walled square sections, one with a reddish stew topped with peppers, bacon and sausage, the other with chips.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Foodposting — as the park didn’t open until 11 I made a leisurely start and had pastries and filter coffees for breakfast.
Chocolate croissant, a spiral pastry with chocolate filling and a knotty pastry with some chocolate as well.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Also did a centrifuge ride, and the park’s three rollercoasters which are harder to get pictures of. One of those, Rutschebanen, is the oldest coaster still operating in Europe.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Also did this tower drop ride — you get raised to the top, dropped in freefall, then decelerated and waved a few times before being returned to the ground.
Tall golden tower. The base of the tower isn’t shown in this photo, owing to its height.The base of the tower, with a frame with rider’s seats around it.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
This ride (called Tik Tak) is an evolution of a spinning-teacup ride. It adds a tilted floor, and seats that rock back and forth, meaning the ride moves on several axes at once. The seats eventually rick hard enough to start doing 360 degree loops during the ride.
Clock-themed ride with heavily-built seats on a spinning axis, with a tilted floor.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
This is the ride I chickened out of (though as a contributing factor unlike the other rides you weren’t even allowed to carry items in zipped pockets.)
Aerial carousel in full spin, the riders swung out many feet above the ground.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
The park dates back to the late 19th Century, and some of the older parts have this sort of Chinoiserie to them. Meanwhile the most recently added section goes in for Japonisme with much more current themes.
Theatre stage in Chinese architectural style. The peacock-tail serving as a stage curtain is a nice touch.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 11/09/2026
Spent most of today at Tivoli Gardens, an amusement park in the centre of Copenhagen. Went on several of the rides marked as “For the Brave” on the map.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Tomorrow’s my last full day in Copenhagen. Planning to visit Tivoli Gardens, a pleasure garden and amusement park.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
The castle was the main thing I did today. Also went back to Copenhagen and went round the Museum of Copenhagen though, taking advantage of Thursday late night openings.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Poster of actors who have played in Hamlet at Kronborg Castle — Vivien Leigh was playing Ophelia rather than being cross-cast as I initially assumed.
Poster with names, dates and pictures for  Richard Burton 1954, Laurence Olivier 1937, Christopher Plummer 1964, Kenneth Branagh 1988, Vivien Leigh 1937, Derek Jacobi 1979, Simon Russell Beale 2000, Jude Law 2009, John Gielgud 1939.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
If you’re wondering whether Kronborg plays up its Hamlet connection — yes, it very much does. At weekends there are some scenes played in their ‘actual’ locations. There’s this wall carving of Shakespeare and a bunch of Hamlet goods in the giftshop.
Wall carving of Shakespeare and some text in Danish that seems to describe his adaptation of Hamlet from Amleth in Saxo Grammaticus.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
The Great Ballroom of the castle, its largest room.
Extremely long hall, largely empty with paintings on the wall and chandeliers.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Holger is supposed to sleep in the casemates under Kronborg castle, a maze of passages which served as soldiers’ living quarters and a line of defence (being thick-walled with small windows that facilitate firing out into open space more they do than firing in)
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Statue of Holger Danske (or Ogior the Dane), a figure from the Matter of France. The same ‘hero who sleeps until his country’s time of need’ story that attaches to both King Arthur and Charlemagne is also told of Holger, though he’s a slightly lower-ranking figure than the usual for the story type.
Statue of a Viking warrior.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Two of the tapestries in the castle. The tapestries depict royal figures, mostly fictitious and used to build up the lineage of the monarchy at the time.
Two woven tapestries each depicting a royal figure in a landscape.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
The castle chapel. This is the interior closest to how the castle as a while would have looked in Shakespeare’s time — fire gutting the castle not long after resulted in rebuilding in a different style. If you want to connect Hamlet with actual castle locations, Claudius prays here.
Church interior with white vaulted roof, checkerboard floor and wooden furnishings. There is an upper balcony as part of the layout.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Entrance gate to the castle courtyard. Statues are of Poseidon and Hermes.
Ornate castle gateway with Classical columns and statues of Poseidon and Hermes.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
View from the sea wall of the castle. It stands next to a narrow strait between Denmark and Sweden, and the Swedish city of Helsingborg can be seen across the other side (yes, very similar name to Helsingør.)
Castle wall next to the sea. Across the sea a city can just about be seen along a strand.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Kronborg seen looking up from the innermost of the three moats.
Renaissance castle on raised land behind a moat. A steep brick wall between the raised land and the moat would have made unaided crossing more difficult.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
View across a couple of the moats surrounding the castle. Helsingør is a harbour town — a lot to do with why the castle was built — and the moats connect to the seafront.
View across a wide moat from a bridge. Only trees, grassland and a steep slope on the castleward side are visible hereView across another moat. In this picture there is a steep wall on the castleward side, and the harbour can be seen across the moat.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Main thing I did today was visit Kronborg Castle, some way to the north of Copenhagen. It’s the castle Hamlet is set in — the name Elsinore is an Anglicisation of Helsingør, the castle town.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Pizza for dinner, with ragù, peppers and onions.
Pizza with ragu, red peppers and purple onions.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 10/09/2026
Foodposts first. More smørrebrød for lunch. One was salmon with taramasalata and a pesto dip, the other spiced herring with pickled veg and sour cream dip.
Two heavily laden open sandwiches.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
Right, that’s it for tonight. Hoping to get to Kronborg Castle (aka Elsinore) tomorrow.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
Unusually, for most of its height instead of stairs it’s climbed by a ramp stretching across the tower, with only a small core at the centre which it spirals round. (There are stairs towards the top.) Some side galleries now stretch into the church building.
Inside the round tower. Floor is a paved ramp stretching nearly the entire diameter of the building.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
After the museum, and a false start in getting back from it, I visited the Copenhagen landmark the Round Tower (Rundetaarn). Attached to a church, it was once an astronomical observation tower.
The Round Tower.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
This train carriage had a large section (about twice the width pictured) primarily designed to stow bikes in. It’s Denmark, this is probably just practical space allocation.
Section of a train carriage with a bike logo in the window, and folded-up seats with bike parking slots underneath.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
Even a ‘little manor’ like this one still uses the same building techniques as smaller Danish farms.
Very large farm building, still half-timbered and thatched.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
A Faroese croft. The stone building is like some older Orcadian ones, the wood is from driftwood.
Farm building made with large, rather loose stones and a turf roof.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
There are a few Swedish buildings at the park, with noticeable differences from the Danish. They’re built largely of wood using horizontal beams, and often have turfed roofs. Most are unpainted instead of Danish whitewash, but this is a striking exception.
Red wooden building with turf roof.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
This windmill stands on a shaft so the entire mill can be turned to face the wind.
Back view of a windmill. There’s a stairway leading into it and support poles round that. The shaft the mill stands on can be seen at the base.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
This is both an example of whitewash over the beams and one of the most unsteady-looking buildings in the park. Many of the larger farms, like this, are wrapped around a square courtyard with large cobblestones for paving.
Building with unsteady beams and roofline, and whitewash over the beams. It wraps around a courtyard with large cobbles.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
While there are some examples of other wall colours, most of the buildings were whitewashed, either between the beams (the nicer effect) or right over them.
One end of another half-timbered thatched house.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
Main thing I did today was visit the Open Air Museum (Frilandsmuseet) north of the city. It’s largely dedicated to farm buildings. Historically Danish ones had a very strong tendency to be half-timbered with thatch roofing. Not quite sure what the infill tended to be, though.
Farm building with half-timbering, whitewashed walls and thatch roof.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
For dinner, malatang (hotpot). Instead of the communal cooking approach, pick out the bits to put in it and choose a broth, and they bring it to you. I chose a herbal beef bone broth.
Bowl of hotpot with various bits of meat, gyoza, tofu, eggs and corn.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 09/09/2026
Foodposts first. Lunch at the Open Air Museum, frikadeller with a slice of rye, pickled veg and potatoes.
Plate with meatballs, slice of very dark rye bread, new potatoes, cucumbers, beans and onion.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 08/09/2026
Stegt flæsk, the Danish national dish. Fried pork belly with new potatoes and parsley sauce.
Dishes with roast pork belly, new potatoes, parsley sauce and beetroot.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 08/09/2026
Smørrebrød for lunch, a Danish type of open sandwich on rye bread, heavily loaded with various things. In this case it was fish in breadcrumbs plus sauce and cranberries on one, chicken salad with mushrooms and bacon on the other.
Two slices of rye bread heavily loaded with stuff — fish in breadcrumbs in one case, chicken salad and bacon in the other, plus greens on top.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 08/09/2026
Went to the National Museum of Denmark and the Danish Design Museum today. May post some pictures from those at some point, but I’m short of time so will just stick to foodposting for now.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 07/09/2026
Getting a bit late by the time I got to Copenhagen, so just picked up a rye sandwich and a frikadeller panini.
A rye bread bun with cheese filling, a toasted panini, and a can of chocolate milk on a 7-Eleven bag.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 07/09/2026
Lunch today at Pizza Pilgrims’ London Bridge branch before heading off to the plane. Marinara and garlic flatbread.
Marinara pizza and garlic cheese flatbread, with the nice irregular bit of charring you get from a proper pizza oven.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 06/09/2026
Besides that, mostly went round secondhand bookshops today. Flying out to Copenhagen tomorrow to continue my holiday there.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 06/09/2026
Dinner at Mummy Pho in Woolwich. Had rice noodle salad with pork (and a fried spring roll), plus iced coconut milk with adzuki beans.
Bowl with rice vermicelli and roast pork, plus fried spring roll and salad.Glass jar with screwtop lid and mug handle. Contains coconut milk and a lot of adzuki.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 06/09/2026
Some quick food posts. This was lunch at Master Wei Xi’An, fried belt noodles with lamb, peppers and mushrooms, plus honey date tea. Belt noodles are both wide and thick, and have a pleasantly chewy texture.
Bowl of wide, thick, fried noodles, plus peppers and mushrooms. Glass of honey tea with dates at the bottom.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 05/09/2026
Also visited the London Cinema Museum, which is only open once a month. They’re focussed on the *showing* of film rather than the making, and have a bunch of cinema paraphernalia and memorabilia, centred round the 30s-50s.
Row of large cinema projectors of 1930s vintage.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 05/09/2026
Today’s lunch from Filipino restaurant Kasa and Kin, Crispy Pork Pata with garlic fried rice and a calamansi smoothie.
Plate of crispy pork with various dipping sauces, plus bowl of garlic fried rice and a calamansi slushie.
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James Moar @jamesmoar.bsky.social · 05/09/2026
Foodposting: Pork sukuwa with puffed rice and potato salad from last night’s meal at the Nepalese restaurant Maya DD’s.
Dish of sizzling pork belly pieces with onion, peppers and a lemon slice, with side dishes of spicy potato salad and puffed rice.
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