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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

We're so glad this #BTPPAdventCalendar is finding an equally receptive audience over here where the skies are blue. Merry Christmas, happy holidays, happy Hanukkah, and we wish you all good spirits (liquid or otherwise). THE END.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

The 1995 #PrideAndPrejudice is a thoroughly thought out, lovingly detailed production whose costumes enhance character, tell stories, and conjure the visual spirit of the age beautifully. It's rightly a classic, and will remain so.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

And so, as we wend our way out with the wedding party into the snowy day, amidst much happiness and prettiness - and possibly some insufficient stocking wearing down the front there - we say adieu to an outstanding feat of Regency costuming.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number six are pretty, and VERY NAUGHTY. Boo!

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

These people are also placed next to each other. Er... We'd like to think that Anne's pink ribbons, like her red dress combo earlier, are signifiers of her incipient seething rebellion breaking out, and that she's eventually going to elope with Colonel Fitzwilliam.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number five are happy and well-matched. Aw! Mrs Phillips photobombing them is very Mrs Phillips. Here for it. Mr Gardiner has boteh/paisley patterns on his waistcoat. A smidge ahead of time, perhaps.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number four is happy, in their own particular way. Aw! Charlotte's cap continues to glory in the sheer capness of itself. She is SO married. If she turns around though, she might get some cap envy.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

These people are related, and prettyish. Aw! Mrs Phillips's glory is lost in the background there. We hope she writes her own fashion column for Meryton. It's nice to see Mary has pulled out a velvet spencer for a wedding. Maybe Kitty made her, since hers is equally fetching.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

These people are four-fifths pretty, and standing next to each other. Oh! The costume designer said she thought of the Bingley sisters as wearing the Regency equivalent of Gucci. FASHUN! Georgiana has her seaside pelisse on.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number three are, happy, ish, and pretty, ish. Ehhh.... Mrs Bennet's swansdown trim is fantastic, and she's into her regular turban for church style. Mr B is positively swanking in that silk waistcoat.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number two are happy and pretty and well-matched. Aw! Love Lizzy's bonnet - lace over a wire structure, suitably covering both bonnety and weddingy requirements. And you have no idea how long it took Darcy's valet to get that one curl over his forehead like that.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Couple number one are happy and pretty and well-matched. Aw!

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

Finally, Mr Bingley's trousers fit him, so well we can see that he too dresses to the right. As someone pointed out, Mr Darcy's duds are somewhat baggier - maybe he's been dieting to fit into his clothes for the big day.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 24/12/2024

24. #BTPPAdventCalendar Last one, so: one, two, three: AWWWWWWWW!! The double wedding takes place before Christmas, aptly enough for our purposes. Once again, we're in morning dress for the fellas, and the ladies with day-length sleeves, though in more luxurious fabrics.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

Although clearly Lizzy thinks so. This is the first time we've seen her in translucent night attire, and a sleeveless petticoat or nightie. Her negligee perhaps hints at foxy nightwear to come. Onya, Lizzles! (She, also, could potentially run away from a Gothic house in this.)

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

However, the whole point of this bit of the episode is this: Successful Proposal Look Somehow not as hot as the others, though still lovely.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

More domestic Bennetudiness. Mr B's waistcoat is worthy of note, and we are always here for depictions of sewing! Lizzy sews a lot more in the book than she gets on TV. Note Mrs B doing somewhat frivolous decorative needlework, rather than useful mending.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

Poor Anne. She is also trussed up in the nicest things, and sports an expensive fur(?) tippet, and intricate bonnet, but this beautifully rigged ship is never going to be allowed to sail anywhere. The 1810s is really when haberdashery details start to take off in fashion though.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

Plus our favourite detail, an ERMINE muff. Too good. So aristo. Are the shades of Pemberley to be thus accessorised?

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 23/12/2024

23. #BTPPAdventCalendar After that piping-filled lull, we're back to the action. Nothing says 'action' like Lady Catherine de Bourgh sweeping in. Hurricane Catherine, a whirl of luxury fabrics. Lace, silk velvet, a mink(?) tippet and a really high, therefore fashionable, bonnet crown

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

You probably won't be able to unsee it now #SorryNotSorry To wash your mind out, let's finish with the Sneaking A Hot Peek With The Whole Family Right There Look

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

However however - it's also a way to finish off the edges of garments neatly, and hide the stitches, when you're using a sewing machine to imitate gowns that were made by hand. Which is probably why it appears so often in pre-1800 costumes. Poldark and Bridgerton are chock full of neckline piping.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

HOWEVER!! You don't get piping without cord on the inside. The cord was made of cotton. Which tells us that cotton was cheap and plentiful enough to be used as a superfluous trimming detail, and widely available. This is probably part of the post-Napoleonic-war increase in trade.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

So sewing the piping in at the neck counteracts some principles of the gowns at the time though it anticipates what's coming. It's starting to be used a bit more on outerwear too so her spencer is getting there.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Having a drawstring or small cord inside allowed for necklines to fit the wearer perfectly no matter what the bust was doing, and vagaries of shape. As stays started to fix their shape, so did busts, so did necklines, and they got cut to exact lines, like Jane's.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

BUT! This is relevant for the bigger historical picture in a couple of ways. First, sewing it around the neck of gowns fixes them in place. One of the brilliant thing about Regency frocks is the adjustable neckline, c 1795-1810. Fashion's silhouettes were in flux, uncertain.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Now, this is one of those dress details that is reaaaallllly specific. In original gowns, it slowly increases in the 1810s, but really takes off after around 1815, 1816. The use throughout P&P is a tad anachronistic (oh yeah, we can be *that* pedantic.)

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Since it's a quiet moment, though, it's finally time to talk about piped necklines. Throughout, mostly in Lizzy's gowns, the edge is finished with what we now call piping - modern pics. You know it! (Also is dress 2 the same as dress 1 only with a different centre front panel?)

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Whereas Mr Bingley is wearing...tweed? Eeenteresting. Trez country. We can see his waistband buttons even in his day trousers though.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Jane is wearing a nightgown that seems designed purposefully for running away from a Gothic castle in, pointy sleeves and all.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Every time Mrs Phillips appears we wish she'd appeared more, just for the frockage. She keeps the Meryton purveyors of haberdashery in business.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

22. #BTPPAdventCalendar It's a quiet period at Longbourn and the girls are about their employment. Mary's doing her music, Kitty is trimming a bonnet (😍), Lizzy and Jane are boy-talking, with herbs, and later, the table is covered with their handiwork. 🥰 these Austeny details.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Wickham's pose is just begging Lizzy to check out which way he dresses. Alas, his trousers have not quite fashionable enough a fit. We'll just have to admire his sizeable fob instead.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Ah! Here's one of Lydia's bandit frocks. She's not worn this one before in the series. And this bonnet doesn't even *have* ribbons! Ker-razy. London fashion, eh?

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Clergymen were sometimes called 'prunellas' after the dark woollen cloth of their suits, which always had breeches not trousers. His round, low crowned hat is also a marker of clerical status, as are the falling bands worn since the 17th century.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Since this is a wedding-rich episode, let's look at the clothes of a fella who can do the marrying, because we kinda haven't. Mr Collins wears a black suit, the kind worn a lot by professional men, often called a suit of dittoes because everything was the same colour.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

We get a better look at the outift in which Lydia eloped because she wears it to visit Longbourn. Such a fab fashion silhouette. That long white fluffy thing is indeed a tippet, but in daylight, could it in fact be made of light fabric gathered heavily together?

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

Mr Bennet presumably doesn't give Lydia money for wedding clothes, though Darcy's bailout might have included that allowance. In which case, she's made out like a absolute bandit on the clothes front the last couple of months.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 22/12/2024

21. #BTPPAdventCalendar Into the home straight now... We start with a wedding, and Lydia's peculiar inability to tie her bonnet ribbons. Wedding were conducted in the morning so men and women wore morning dress. Veils were optional, as was white. The Dress wasn't a massive deal.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

And finally, we would like to point out an important detail of male Regency clothing extra noticeable in the tight legwear of the time: Mr Darcy dresses to the right.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

They're really making the most of Jane's non-wig hair. Here she is washing it. You can see the tag lines now for the Jane Bennet doll ✨with real action washable hair!✨

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

Someone was asking whether trousers could be held down with a strap under the instep, and lo, Wickham delivers an example. Though they should be inside his shoes, not outside. Lydia's also picked up foxy nightwear with her ruination.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

And finally, for once, it's raining in this eternal summer! Prolly 'cos the Bennets have the sads, 'cos Lydia got some. Anyhow, it's not so bad if we get the chance to see himself's splendiferous travel cloak, with three sets of capes and a velvet collar. Swiiiiish.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

Mr Bennet is really growing on us with his quite lovely wardrobe. He has another excellent piece of straw hattage, and we dig his home coat, something that carefully feels like a dressing gown but looks like a coat.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

20. #BTPPAdventCalendar Today we start with some love for secondary characters. Mrs Phillips is a dedicated follower of fashion and it's fantastic. She must have swooned when the Bingley sisters (FASHUN!) rolled into town. Such clothes, sister! Douze points for that feather.

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The Bill and Ted Test @billandtedtest.bsky.social · 20/12/2024

We interrupt our Pride & Prejudice Advent Calendar #BTPPAdventCalendar coverage to remind you that if you like these threads, and Regency fashion, you might like the books over at @austendress.bsky.social. They taught us everything we know. There's a third one coming next year!

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