benandkayla.com
Montreal, Canada (Winter)
"You are going to **Canada IN WINTER? WHY?** "
We heard that question repeatedly after telling friends about our trip to our 22nd country: Canada. More specifically, Montréal, Québec, is a city that greets you like an elegant embrace from a cold, beautiful French companion. Skeptical friends shook their heads, imagining blizzards and endless frost. But it was worth it. Every chilled moment led to one of the finest trips of our lives.
### Why Go to Montreal in Winter? (Because It Is Pure Magic)
We should have visited Canada much sooner; for this reason, Montréal quickly rose to the top of our 2025 list. Hockey players who glide like poets on ice. Bagels that outshine any others (New York is a contender we have yet to try). Restaurants that inspire wonderment. The second-largest city in Canada, an economic powerhouse, and the largest French-speaking city in North America. That proud French heritage is shown on every street corner and stop sign. Montréal is beautiful, especially during the Christmas season, when twinkling lights and festive garlands transform the cobblestone lanes into a winter wonderland (especially if you get snow).
Reaching Montréal was effortless (for us traveling from the US): just two flights landed us at Montréal-Trudeau Airport, a sleek terminal with a Nordic warmth, all clean lines, welcoming wood, and streamlined processes. We hopped in an Uber and arrived downtown in 30 minutes. The wind whipped through the buildings, chilling us before we could make it into our accommodations.
Winter in Montréal demands preparation. Temperatures can dip to -20°C, but that is part of the allure. Bundle up and discover a city alive with holiday spirit.
## The City
Montréal reveals itself through its distinct neighborhoods, each offering a unique lens on this bilingual gem. We explored the highlights at a winter's pace, bundled against the chill yet warmed by festive lights.
**Old Montréal** enchants with 18th-century stone facades and cobblestone streets, where Notre-Dame Basilica glows like a lantern (especially if you go to the light show inside, highly recommend) and the Old Port buzzes with activity and **plenty** of amazing restaurants of all types that cater more to the tourists. It is the postcard heart, romantic and historic, a must-see.
**Plateau-Mont-Royal** pulses with bohemian energy: colorful spiral staircases climb row houses, street art explodes in vivid murals, and trendy cafés serve espresso amid twinkling Christmas garlands. Perfect for aimless wanders, like us, and people-watching. Also, the food is phenomenal, plenty of unique places to eat at here (you're going to see a theme here... Montréal has some of the best food in the world...from all over the world)
**Downtown (Centre-Ville)** towers with modern skyscrapers and luxury shops, anchored by the underground city, a climate-controlled maze of boutiques and eateries. Holiday windows dazzle with displays, and Place des Arts hosts twinkling light shows.
**Mile End** exudes creative cool: indie shops, vintage stores, and the epicenter of bagel lore with St-Viateur and Fairmount (More on that latter). Portuguese chicken spots and dive bars full of locals.
**Mount Royal** , the city's green lung, rises centrally a snowy playground for sledding, if there is enough snow, and panoramic views. In December, its paths crunch underfoot, sometimes making it an icy climb, toward the illuminated chalet, overlooking a bustling metropolis below.
These quarters blend seamlessly, connected by an efficient metro and busses which can (normally) get you from one to another without much fuss. Montréal is a city of contrasts: old and new, French and English, creative and business. Oh, and have we mentioned the food...
## The Food
The food scene is a highlight, and was the top reason we wanted to go to Montreal. A paradise for the palate; anything you could desire from Vietnamese to Caribbean to classic French cooking.
Let's begin with the bagel wars: St-Viateur and Fairmount, the two legendary shops. Hand-rolled, wood-fired, and sesame-crusted, they are denser and sweeter than New York's, perfect with smoked salmon (if that's your thing), cream cheese or butter, and a steaming coffee. They had plenty of bagel options if sesame is not your thing, just remember to bring cash, and decide before you get to the counter... might as well get a half dozen at each place, as we were split on our favorite "Montréal Bagel shop".
If you are looking for a more common bakery for a Pain au chocolat, AKA a chocolatine, AKA a chocolate croissant, for most of us (Editor's Note: surprisingly contentious naming for this chocolate pastry), plenty of cafes all over the city with amazing coffee and doughnuts as well.
For lunch, we have to recommend the Italian delights at Renzo Sandwich, where fresh panini or a cheese steak burst with flavor. If you are looking for quick seafood lunch, then head to Brit & Chips for crispy fish (with some unique choices like salmon) and thick-cut fries, a comforting nod to British pub fare amid the holiday chill. Evenings called for indulgence.
While these two places we did not get to, they have been highly recommended: La Banquise, poutine reigns supreme: golden fries smothered in squeaky curds and rich gravy. Schwartz's Deli delivers smoked meat on rye, juicy and mustard-kissed, another highlight of Plateau-Mont-Royal.
Our standout dinner was at Taverne Gaspar, a classic French brasserie overlooking the park and St. Lawrence River. Steak frites arrived perfectly seared, with herb butter melting into frites as crisp as fresh snow, with a nice view of the Montreal ferriswheel.
## The Christmas Markets
No Montréal visit in December is complete without the Christmas Market. Tucked in the heart of the city, it evokes the festive markets of Europe with wooden stalls, mulled wine, and handmade ornaments twinkling against the light. Small wood fires and smoked meats fill the air, families bundled in scarves laughing over hot cider. It is not as vast as those in Germany or France, and we wished for more scale and vendors, but it captures that same joyful essence. A perfect pause to sip hot drinks, shop for local crafts, and soak in the holiday glow before returning to the city's embrace.
By trip's end, we were enchanted as snow fell like confetti, wisked beteween the buildings. Montréal in winter, laced with Christmas cheer, felt authentic. Cold outside, warm within.
Just go!
* * *
## Practical Tips
Venturing to Montréal in winter? These essentials will keep you warm, fed, and moving seamlessly through the chill.
1. **Dress like an Arctic explorer** : Layer thermals, wool sweaters, a waterproof parka, or a Gore-Tex jacket. Also bring nice boots or shoes with some grip as some areas like parks can get icy.
2. **Stay in the right neighborhood** : Opt for Plateau-Mont-Royal for bohemian charm and walkable cafés (our choice); Old Montréal for historic romance and tourist spots; or Downtown (Centre-Ville) for underground city access and luxury hotels like the Ritz-Carlton. Proximity to metros beats isolation further out.
3. **Master transport** : unlimited passes are a steal! I think they had 1-day, 3-day, and 7-day for very reasonable prices. Ubers are reliable and a good choice if you are going somewhere off-metro. Walking is magical but short bursts only, otherwise it gets too cold.
4. **Book dinners ahead** : Use OpenTable or call directly. For casual eats and lunch at places like Schwartz's, arrive early or embrace the line.
5. **The underground city** : RESO network spans 32 km of heated tunnelsshops, food courts, even cinemas. Your winter lifeline between sights without frostbite, but some of the best places are outside….
6. **Install a translation app** : French dominates; Google/Apple Translate bridges gaps politely. Remember the Cold saps the power from batteries.
7. **Currency and costs** : CAD is king, cash is required for some places like Fairmount and St. Viateur’s; cards accepted everywhere else and are the default.
8. **Health kit basics** : Lip balm, moisturizer, and electrolyte packs combat dry air. Pharmacies like Jean Coutu are plentiful.s
* * *
## Related Vlogs
