Bar word of a secret stash of vintage blouses numbering some 600 (and counting), Chemena Kamali is not a designer you would necessarily characterise as obsessional: her clothes have a lightness, a freedom and ease that transcends the usual use of that descriptor. She does head **Chloé** , after all, and that label is best summarised by all those aforementioned words. But obsession was the big idea that defined her Spring/Summer 2027 collection – the return,hellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (55 images)nbsp;

Of late, the indelibility of **Tom Ford** ’s legacy has been front of mind – not to fashion insiders, but rather to the public at large. His is a name that comes up, inevitably, when online commentary roils about Demna’s ongoing reinvention of Gucci, given that Ford forged its modern identity first; more than one noted similarities between the spectacle of Anthony Vaccarello’s latest Saint Laurent outing and Tom Ford’s first and final shows for that maison overhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (67 images)nbsp;

On a mild Monday evening in Paris’s Le Marais, AnOther Magazine and **Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle** co-hosted an intimate soirée and panel talk to celebrate the launch of the house’s new perfume, Northern Love, created by master perfumer Bruno Jovanovic. read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (19 images)nbsp;

**Sujin Lee** ’s visions of girlhood come to her mind fully formed. The Korean artist, whose exhibition **Where We Once Stood** is currently on show at Saatchi Yates, works with acrylic paints to transpose these visions onto canvas. This body of work presents a series of portraits of young intense-eyed women, most of whom are gazing out at us from a setting in nature, exposed to the elements in some way, be it the wind blowing in from the sea, thehellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (8 images)nbsp;

One thing you know about the **Balmain** woman: she’s a bit of an animal. In fact, in the hands of Antonin Tron, incumbent creative director of the house, she’s a lot of animals, an abattoir of big-cat print and pattern overlaid, a leather ruched to resemble the tonsured hide of a crocodile or snake, maybe, a lace skirt patterned like alligator but actually, on closer inspection, embroidered with sequins to replicate ocelot hide. read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (55 images)nbsp;

**Johnny Marr** has long been known as one of the most creative, unique and influential guitar players in the history of pop music. He created a shimmering sonic framework for 1980s indie in his visionary work in The Smiths that continues to be foundational and endlessly emulated to this day. He’s been a member of The The, teamed up with New Order’s Bernard Sumner to form the electronic pop outfit, Electronic, and has also had stints in bands such as Modest Mouse and Thehellip; read more raquo;

“This is my daughter Daphne swimming in the pool at an all-inclusive holiday we went on to Mallorca. I’ve always been interested in those holiday resorts because they’re like a little world in miniature. I never got to go on holidays like that when I was a kid; my parents weren’t interested in going abroad. They were a fantasy space for me, and now I can actually go to one of these as an adult and take my children. I used swimming pools periodically in my work throughout the years. Ihellip; read more raquo;

There’s a perception of **Courrèges** as an icy, intractable house – much as the founder, André (definitively Monsieur Courrèges to us) is still seen as a high fashion space age savant in perpetual Persil white and Mr Maggoo bug-eye glasses. So a T-shirt jauntily printed with ‘Bonjour’ seems very un-Courrèges, bar of course its innate Frenchness. But Drew Henry, the house’s new creative director – ex of Phoebe Philo and Burberry, among others – found them inhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (50 images)nbsp;

Despite only having seven features to his name,**Alejandro González Iñárritu** has amassed a reputation that far precedes him. A defining figure of the New Mexican Cinema alongside Alfonso Cuarón and Guillermo del Toro, the 63-year-old has forged a formidable career out of plumbing the depths of the human condition through fraught, intricately woven psychological dramas, earning him historic back-to-back Academy awards for best director and a slew of critical and commercialhellip; read more raquo;

## **Possible Love** _23 October_ For years Lee Chang-dong was one of world cinema’s most slept-on talents, a filmmaker of penetrating depth and subtlety who fast became a critics’ fave while failing to make the kind of splash abroad enjoyed by his compatriots, Bong Joon Ho and Park Chan-wook. That all changed with Burning (2018), an enigmatic thriller of roiling class tensions that anticipated the _hallyu_ wave of the late 2010s, and provided thehellip; read more raquo;

There’s a story about Yves Saint Laurent that I love. You’ve heard it all before. At a point during his later years – addled by addictions, his brilliance dimmed – **Saint Laurent** was interviewed by the novelist Anthony Burgess, who asked for his view on women. He replied quietly, in faltering English. Burgess misunderstood andhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (11 images)nbsp;

Each autumn, as the nights grow dark and crisp, cinephiles descend upon the **BFI London Film Festival**. It is, arguably, the most perfectly timed film festival, with events kicking off as we finally bid farewell to the summer heat and everyone dusts off their Letterboxd account. LFF is the time for London moviegoers (and those willing to travel) to play catch-up and see what all the fuss is about; to finally check out the recent Palme d’Or winner and the hyped TIFFhellip; read more raquo;

Who gets to be visible in fashion? It’s a question that has long preoccupied **Matières Fécales**. Founders Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran met at fashion school in Montreal before launching the label in 2015, building an audience online with alien-looking DIY clothes, extreme prosthetics and warped images that played with conventional ideas of beauty. Their early work was confrontational and bodily; more recently, that same visual language hashellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (31 images)nbsp;

Looking south in the Parc des Tuileries, you could glimpse the tip of the Eiffel Tower above a boxwood hedge while Jonathan Anderson discussed his latest reiteration – reinvention? Revitalisation? – of the house of **Dior**. Glance away from Anderson, towards the westerly rail of his Dior clothes previewed a few hours ahead of his Spring/Summer 2027 show – the first big kahuna, in a Paris Fashion Week packed with them – and l’obélisque de Louxor came into view. Touristichellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (65 images)nbsp;

**Mark Leckey** is keeping his cards, or rather his tracklist, close to his chest. For Spring/Summer 2027, the British artist and occasional DJ was enlisted by Louise Trotter to soundtrack Bottega Veneta’s white-walled catwalk in Milan. It’s his third collaboration with the fashion house, as far as he can remember, and “by far the biggest”hellip; read more raquo;

Opening every autumn, the exhibition for the yearly **Turner Prize** in many ways marks UK art’s back to school moment with a showcase of four dynamic art practices that speak to the chaotic particularities of the present. The iconic annual showcase that introduced the British public to Tracey Emin’s unmade bed in 1999 and Rachel Whiteread's life-sized cast of a house in 1993 is back for its 42nd edition, this year at Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art. Thehellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (13 images)nbsp;

On an inconspicuous backstreet in Bermondsey is a retired industrial granary. It’s unremarkable enough from the outside – weathered greying brickwork, arching steel-framed crittal windows, monolithic in scale. It looks just like a 19th-century dockland warehouse along the Thames should. Today it serves a new function, transformed into residential apartments, studios and workspaces by an architect who acquired it in the Seventies. Here, up several flights of stairs, is artist andhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (14 images)nbsp;

If you entered a certain pitch-black room on the island of Lazzaretto Vecchio during this year’s Venice Film Festival, you will have seen the silence and darkness erupt into a barrage of some 800 neon-lit photographs, 360-degree soundscapes and blasting **David Bowie** tracks. The result of a collaboration between Bowie’s touring photographer **Denis O’Regan** and L-Acoustics producer Paul Keating, the extended reality installation **Bowie: Unseen |hellip;** read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (7 images)nbsp;

_This story is taken from the Autumn/Winter 2026 issue of AnOther Magazine:_ read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (23 images)nbsp;

Flowers have been kind of a thing this season. Florals for spring, and all that. Louise Trotter left a handmade leather one – a parrot tulip, a lily, what I thought was a ranunculus but turned out to be a peony (I’m not an expert) – on every seat of her Spring/Summer 2027 **Bottega Veneta** show. Christian Lacroix used to do the same at the couture for his audience to pelt him with adoringly. Everyone today, rather, adored Trotter’s and took them home.hellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (11 images)nbsp;

Generally, when people talk about fashion, the two arenas they discuss are the catwalk and the street. Yet, the latter is where fashion becomes clothes, really reality, meanwhile the former where it’s a performance, an art piece put on a pedestal to be inspected, sometimes reviled, maybe adored. Both of those ideas don’t make me think of **Gucci** – which is, at its heart, a leather goods brand, founded by the fabulously named Guccio Gucci who, after spending a fewhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (36 images)nbsp;

Sometimes, what you don’t do can matter just as much as what you do. This was the thinking of Meryll Rogge, in her sophomore show for **Marni**. It’s a house known, to a degree, for a cuddly maximalism under founder Consuelo Castiglioni. Rogge showed in a space stripped out to savage, even surgical metal rods and panels of wood veneer, revealing the concrete infrastructure that lay beneath. It felt like a vivisection of the building, accompanying narrow clothes that dicedhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (60 images)nbsp;

“I remember walking through the central market in Riga one morning. I’d only gone out to get a coffee, but I noticed these elderly women in patterned dresses moving through the stalls, inspecting everything with this incredible concentration. I became fascinated by them and started following them, chasing them through the market like a child chasing butterflies, trying to take photographs. I had no idea where I was going. They disappeared outside, through an underpass, into a tunnel,hellip; read more raquo;

They don’t show many epic monster movies at the Cannes Film Festival. Even though **Na Hong-jin** ’s previous films (serial killer thriller The Chaser and supernatural horror The Wailing) had established the Korean director at the festival, the action extravaganza of **Hope** – replete with dense sci-fi lore, scatalogical humour and Oscar-nominated actors playing CGI aliens – was a jolt of adrenaline in this year’s Cannes competition. Somewhere on the Croisette, ahellip; read more raquo;

Here’s a real tear-jerker: right now, some of the best-dressed people in the world are separated from the vast majority of their clothes. Fashion month has already rattled through New York and London, is now camped out in Milan and will shortly make its final descent on Paris. Which presents one of luxury’s more ridiculous logistical problems: how exactly do you fit four cities, several climates and a month’s worth of outfits into a suitcase? Gucci’s answer might be a duffle bag, which,hellip; read more raquo;

In the opening of **Remake** , **Ross McElwee** melancholically pulls back the curtain on the creative process that’s made him one of documentary cinema’s most singular talents. “Although [they] touched on broad issues like nuclear weapons proliferation or big tobacco,” says the director in his low-toned, southern-accented voiceover, “what was central in my films was always my own life, often involving my family.” McElwee doesn’t boast the celebrity ofhellip; read more raquo;

Perhaps it’s to do with particularly alarming developments in AI, or the seemingly inexorable concentration of wealth and power so evident across the globe but, as readers, it feels like it has become increasingly difficult to encounter speculative fiction that doesn’t involve post-apocalyptic landscapes, nefarious overloads, and the related, typical technological tropes. Pulitzer Prize-winning author **Hernan Diaz** ’s astounding new novelhellip; read more raquo;

Maria Grazia Chiuri has been back in Italy full-time for just over a year, preceding her appointment to lead the Roman house of **Fendi** last October. She’s evidently steeping herself in the culture from which she came. “This reference is very close to Italian culture,” she said beforehand, of the heroine that inspired her Spring/Summer 2027 Fendi collection – as a warning, that we may have no idea what she was on about. That was Raffaella Carrà, an Italianhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (68 images)nbsp;

_This story is taken from the Autumn/Winter 2026 issue of AnOther Magazine:_ “I first met Dominique on the train back to Paris from the Cannes Film Festival, where I’d been with my first movie, Return to Seoul. I remember telling her my doubts about continuing in the film industry. I was so happy to meet her because her work was very important to me when I was an art student [at the École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, Paris]hellip; read more raquo;

Miuccia Prada is, without a doubt, the fashion designer whose personal sartorial style is most dissected, emulated and even idolised. We all love Donatella Versace, but very few of us want to dress like her. And the single garment Miuccia Prada is most associated with is a skirt. It was the subject of a **Prada** -devised exhibition titled Waist Down that toured the world for five years in the mid-2000s, and also an integral part of the Metropolitan Museum’s 2012 double-headerhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (63 images)nbsp;

The phenomenally influential Octogenarian textile designer Celia Birtwell is probably best known to the general public as Mrs Clark, via her beatific appearance, haloed by blonde ringlets in the late David Hockney’s 1970-71 portrait of her, her then-husband and fashion collaborator Ossie Clark, and their cat Percy (actually, her name was Blanche). An Arnolfini Marriage for the 20th century, or indeed a British counterpart to Grant Wood’s pitchfork-wielding American Gothic, it is likehellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (61 images)nbsp;

A **Pedro Almodóvar** film is instantly recognisable. “That sensibility for saturated colours, boldness, lack of aesthetic prejudices and kitsch wasn’t acquired on my travels, I was born with it,” says the director in his foreword to **Almodóvar Art: The Art in the Films of Pedro Almodóvar** , a new book released by Rizzoli this month. read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (8 images)nbsp;

Have you heard the one about the Caravaggio in a Dublin dining room? No, it’s not a very special edition of the Antiques Roadshow, but rather the remarkable discovery of the Baroque masterpiece The Taking of Christ, painted in 1603, on the wall of a Dublin Jesuit mess hall in 1990. Everyone assumed it was a copy, someone fudged the records in 18th-century Rome, and doubtless 30-odd years ago a tranche of people were railing against their ancestors’ generosity in donating the painting back inhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (32 images)nbsp;

When **Beck** crossed over in 1994 with the undeniable Loser single, few could have predicted the trajectory he would take. By that point he’d already managed an unlikely transformation from the lo-fi underground folk scene to being an undefinable major label artist at once channelling Gen X’s disaffected angst and MTV-fuelled rapture. In subsequent years, Beck went on to release the era-defining, sample-based Odelay before expanding his conceptual horizonshellip; read more raquo;

A few weeks before his debut show for Mulberry, Christopher Kane is talking about axes. Axes, tree surgeons, cutting away to create new growth. It’s all very fitting for a brand named **Mulberry**. “The axe was fundamental,” he says. He’s holding a bag he’s called the Chop, which is based on the sheaths used to protect axe blades. Another, with a curved bottom, is called the Rocker. As in, off your, for basing a collection around hatchets when Ryan Murphy has just launchedhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (30 images)nbsp;

I’m deep in West Texas, outside a quaintly makeshift-looking structure once used as a marketplace for cattle. You can see Mexico from here, south of the Rio Grande. The mountains in the distance look blue against the apricot sky, the sun is on its descent and the shadows lengthen as trucks and cars congregate in the adjoining field. Despite the flow of margaritas, it’s not a rowdy crowd – the atmosphere is buoyantly good-willed. It doesn’t look like it’s going to be a very eventfulhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (18 images)nbsp;

“Ever since I was a child, I thought letters, numbers, days, months had colours,” **Pauline Dujancourt** tells me days ahead of her Spring/Summer 2027 show. “I thought everyone else did too.” Dujancourt – who graduated from an MA in Knitwear from Central Saint Martins in 2022 already a Phoebe English, Alexander Wang, Simone Rocha and Rejino Pyo alum, starting her namesake brand shortly after – has synaesthesia, a neurological phenomenon where the stimulationhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (28 images)nbsp;

_This story is taken from the Autumn/Winter 2026 issue of AnOther Magazine:_ read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (17 images)nbsp;

There is a specific kind of majesty that emanates from the protagonists of **Keerthana Kunnath** ’s bodybuilding series, **Not What You Saw**. Typically bathed in the rich glow of the south Indian sun, the athletes appear graceful and assured as they make familiar shapes: raising their arms, flexing their biceps, turning a leg out, heads held high. Photographed away from their usual training spots and outside of the pageantry ofhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (7 images)nbsp;

Interviewing **Nicolas Winding Refn** isn’t too dissimilar from watching one of his films. Like his characters, he speaks at a leisurely pace. He peppers his conversation with phrases more akin to movie dialogue than everyday speech (“I like to objectify”, “I wanted to make a movie because I didn’t know what a movie was now”). And like his films, the 55-year-old’s answers are sometimes profound, sometimes pretentious, but always entertaining. We’re speaking ahead of thehellip; read more raquo;

Early in my preview of **Paolo Carzana** ’s latest collection, on the morning of his Spring/Summer 2027 runway show, I ask what the painted masks covering some of his models’ faces represent. “I don’t want to explain what things mean,” he says. “I want you to decide what they mean to you.” read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (29 images)nbsp;

Seán McGirr says that, as a fresher at Central Saint Martins, he would go to the National Gallery to look at the Baptism of Christ, painted in the 15th century by Piero della Francesca. “I was obsessed with it,” he recalls. Alongside, obviously, the slightly more 21st-century pursuits of dancing all night in various insalubrious London locales. Whether the two actually abutted during his nascent years as a designer is a moot point – it was the idea of melding those two differenthellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (46 images)nbsp;

“My earliest memory is arriving in India with my mum when I was very young. I remember stepping off the plane and being completely overwhelmed by the heat, the noise, the colour – everything all at once. The smells, the traffic, the ambient sounds in the background felt so different to the textural landscape I knew in the UK. It was almost a culture shock, but an incredible one: it was raw, emotive and visceral. I remember waking up at my grandparents’ house to the overhead fan,hellip; read more raquo;

By turns tender and sardonic, **Youth** has all the rapier wit that’s become writer and actress **Sharon Horgan** ’s signature over the years. Premiering on HBO Max this week, the show stars Horgan as Alex, a 50-year-old divorcee seeking love and adventure while having to take care of her ageing parents and a troubled son. She’s also a literary agent based in London – the kind of job you can’t leave at the door of your office, even if you’ve alreadyhellip; read more raquo;

Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham aren’t biting off more than they can chew. The creative industries have long fetishised labour and all-nighters, surrounded by rails of unfinished clothes and interns fuelled on Redbull and cigarettes. Coomes and Empringham, who design the young London label **A Letter** , aren’t very interested in that mythology. Two days before their debut show, Coomes is upstairs at Sarabande, where the brand has its modest studio, talkinghellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (27 images)nbsp;

There was something different about the **Talia Byre** woman this season, a logical deduction, perhaps, given that the notion behind the collection was transformation. In fact, there were a few threads running through it. “It’s a mix of lots of different things,” Talia Lipkin-Connor – the designer behind the label – said in a preview a few days before the show. Where in the past, Lipkin-Connor might have started with one reference in mind – a Deborah Levyhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (29 images)nbsp;

**Aaron Esh** is an obsessive. At a preview ahead of his London Fashion Week show, he keeps plucking pieces of his latest collection from the rail, turning them inside out, running his fingers over stitching and exposing invisible seams. His voice is riled-up and anguished, as he points out the tiny things that will be frustratingly hard to notice on the runway. “This is beyond my expectations of how nicely the clothes are made and finished,” he says. “It takes time.” Eshhellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (30 images)nbsp;

The opening of **Xavier Tera** ’s dreamy, lyrical coming-of-age film **The Colour of the Sun** could not be more pointed: the all-eclipsing roar of a passing military aircraft interrupts an Okinawan school’s lesson on the American occupation. Set on a small island in southwestern Japan, this debut feature is a drama of divides, from fantasy and reality, to two contrasting cultures and starkly different varieties of masculinity. Like elsewhere in the world, thehellip; read more raquo;

A shoe with laces is a fairly standard offering, but Sandra Choi at Jimmy Choo reinvents the notion, as she has bucked at so many footwear conventions in her 30 years (and counting) as creative head of the label. No standard Oxford or brogue, this offering, from Choo’s coincidental rather than celebratory 30th anniversary collection, has laces on top of laces, namely corset-inspired whipstitch leather ties knotted through a paradoxically delicate lingerie lace body. Leather and lace could behellip; read more raquo;

A photograph can feel like a holy object. Just imagine how superstitiously dangerous and profane it would feel to desecrate a picture of a loved one. The Roman Catholic Church has a method of calculating the religious worth of holy relics. A first-class relic would be the mortal remains of a saint, for example, the skull of Saint Valentine, displayed inside the Basilica of Santa Maria in Rome. A second-class relic is an object rendered holy by its intimate contact with a saint, such ashellip; read more raquo; nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; View Gallery (12 images)nbsp;