A couple of months ago, I talked about the tragedy on Broad Peak. Many of you listened and left thoughtful comments. Thank you for that. Since then, it's been a tough season in the mountains. A really hard year. I took some time to think deeply about a few key questions and how to move forward—not speaking for the industry or the climbing community, but from my own experience, observations and opinion. Today I want to step back and look at the bigger picture. Are the mountains becoming too dangerous? Or is the risk changing, and are we changing with it? #broadpeak2026 #manaslu2026, #himlung2026 #langtangflood2026

Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—fourteen people are missing. Himlung Himal (7,126 m), in Manang district, requires an additional permit for helicopter flights, adding to the difficulties of reaching the mountain. Himlung has been heavily marketed since Nepal floated the idea of requiring a 7,000-meter climb in Nepal before applying for an Everest permit. The rule is going through Nepal's governmental approval process but is not in place as of September 2026, and probably will not be in time for the Everest 2027 Spring season. #manaslu2026

With the recent heavy snows, it was inevitable that the upper slopes of Manaslu would see some avalanche activity. If that wasn't enough, the signs of an impending typhoon hitting the area are increasing. It's time for every climber and team to gather data and make responsible decisions. #manaslu2026

With the recent heavy snows, it was inevitable that the upper slopes of Manaslu would see some avalanche activity. If that wasn't enough, the signs of an impending typhoon hitting the area are increasing. It's time for every climber and team to gather data and make responsible decisions. #manaslu2026

With China closing Tibet to mountaineering this autumn and recent floods making travel to many areas in Nepal difficult, operators focused on Manaslu, and climbers came. Nepali authorities have issued a record 451 climbing permits to foreign climbers on Manaslu (8,163 meters/26,781 feet), with a 1:1.5 member-to-support ratio, which could put 1,128 climbers on the mountain. Nepal received over $1.35 million in royalties. Sadly, there has been one death. #manaslu2026

September 2026 marks ten years since I founded Summit Coach, LLC. Since then, I've worked with hundreds of clients and interacted with thousands more. Today, I have dozens of climbers under contract—each with a different background, schedule, and definition of success. For my anniversary, I'm excited to make a special offer to new and current clients. #summitcoach #alanarnette

On August 26, 2026, a catastrophic flood struck the Nepal–Tibet border, taking 1,273 lives, with an estimated 4,750 people still missing. This post explains what likely happened, the current casual…

World Central Kitchen's restaurant partners are serving meals in Nepal's Rasuwa and Nuwakot districts–downstream from the country's border with World Central Kitchen’'s restaurant partners are serving...

Two weeks ago today, on July 30, 2026, ten climbers died in a single avalanche on Broad Peak. The event has received extensive media coverage, in part because Nirmal “Nims” Purja, one o…

I always hesitate to post about climbing accidents too early, as there is a tremendous amount of misinformation in the mainstream media and especially on social media; thus, this is a preliminary p…

The Karakorum continues to be quiet as we approach the end of July. There have been summits only on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. High winds have hampered attempts on K2, while other issues have emerged on GI and Broad Peak.

Alan Arnette and Uphill Athlete coach Martin Zoerr break down the record-breaking 2026 Everest season — icefall delays, drone bans, death toll, training standards, and what's ahead for 2027.

In a quiet season, with poor weather stalling progress, there is climbing across the Karakorum. While the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat feel like a long time ago, a few teams have reached several of Pakistan's five 8,000-meter peaks and are on their summit bids. What's different about this season is the lack of huge (50+ clients with 50+ Sherpas); instead, small, even solo professional climbers, many climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support - in other words, low-cost base–camp only services from budget Pakistani operators. Kind of feels like the good old days, ten to fifteen years ago. #k2026

In a quiet season, climbing across the Karakorum is underway, with the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat. A few teams reached several of Pakistan's five 8,000-meter peaks. #k2026

Over the past two years, Nepal’s government and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation have been working on a sweeping Tourism Bill that includes new rules for casinos, hospitality, and mountaineering. The key proposed rule for Everest mountaineers is the requirement to have summited a 7,000-meter-or-higher peak in Nepal before receiving an Everest permit. #everest2027

In 1996, three Indian climbers died on the Tibetan side of Everest. One became known as "Green Boots" and was macabrely used as a route marker for 30 years. That's about to come to an end.

Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, didn't just "summit" Everest on May 20; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (approx. 700 miles), starting on March 4th, 2026, from the village of Digha, India, on the Indian Ocean. Oh, then he walked back, covering 2,000 km (1,242 miles) over more than 100 days. In this Podcast, we discuss his journey and the two other seas to summit to sea climbs and his plans. If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one from American Alpine Institute and Summit Coach client, John Bartlic John, a Southwest Airlines pilot living in Dallas, Texas, is relatively new to mountaineering, with a Rainier summit last year and a Pico de Orizaba summit a few months ago. His next includes Kilimanjaro and Everest. We discussed everything from motivation, training, gear, clothing and weather to logistics and had a special remembrance of Mayor Stubbs of Talkeetna, Alaska, who died in 2017. I met Stubbs in 2007 on a climb. #Denali2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa "Hillary" Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He was found by members of the SPCC staff, Bhim Bhattarai and Durga Rai, in an extremely weak condition near Crampon Point, but conscious. He has frostbite on his fingers, is verbal, and is now in a hospital in Kathmandu in good condition. #everest2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That's my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, "normal." The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging climbing. Despite the dramatic headlines in the mainstream press, it was actually a fairly normal season, as evidenced in part by roughly 80% of this year's 1,008 summits occurring between May 17th and May 26th, consistent with historical trends. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2026 If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: 

We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O's climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for a no-supplemental-use-of-oxygen climb. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th.  The final total for the Everest- Nepal side summit will most certainly top 1,000, including members, guides and Sherpas.  #everest2026

We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I'm estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. #everest2026

With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns. The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients.  The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without using supplemental oxygen. You can follow him on his site.  #everest2026

A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.  #everest2026

After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I'm announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.  #everest2026

More summits!  Report after report had the Nepal side of Everest with massive crowds, probably over 150. A few teams have reported in, but we will need to wait for the official summit start to measure how big Wednesday morning, May 20, was. And there are many more to come, at least another 200.  #everest2026

More summits! The forecast of high winds may have kept many teams on hold, but we still saw a few summits on Tuesday, May 19, 2026. I'll update the totals when we know more.  #everest2026

Despite sporadic winds and a scary weather forecast, Monday, May 18, 2026, saw scores of summits on Everest and a few on Lhotse. The jetstream remains an issue, so I did a brief podcast with meteorologist Chris Tomer, who described the situation as "erratic."  #everest2026

After weeks of delays, the rope fixers finally reached the summit of Everest with the fixed line. However, the jet stream is about to sit over the summit for the next few days, making any attempts dangerous, if not deadly. It turned out that there were members stationed at the South Col, hoping to draft off the fixers and reach the summit—6 members did just that.  #everest2026

The Himalayan death toll is now at five, with two Everest climbers and one trekker on his way to climb Everest. An impromptu rope-fixing team has reached the Balcony around 8400 meters and expects to hand off to the regular rope fixers to continue to the summit by the 13th. Multiple reports say the route from base camp to Camp 2 is one of the best in years. #everest2026

The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

The weather is bad on Everest. Heavy snow at EBC with high winds at Cmap 2. The rope fixing team is hunkering down until it passes. The good news is that this appears to be a short-term event. Now for the bad news. Meteorologists, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions told me today, Thursday, May 7, 2026, in Nepal: #everest2026

A small avalanche off Everest's West Shoulder fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, injuring two. It's a gift that there weren't more. The ropes reached Camp 3 today, keeping them on schedule to reach Everest's summit around May 14, and also Lhotse's summit. Multiple teams are now at Camp 2 for acclimatization, and Camp 3 has been established–particularly good for the no O's climbers. #everest2026

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon. Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th. Everest permits are nearing 2024's record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone. #everest2026

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual - client and Sherpa is willing to take? While the route to Camp 1 is about two weeks late, there is still plenty of time this season, so, regardless of what you may read, the Everest 2026 season is not at risk—anymore. #everest2026

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers. #everest2026

In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across Nepal's trekking circuits, involving fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays. Additionally, Global Rescue will not provide longline rescues above Camp 2 this year due to a lack of qualified pilots, which will fundamentally change expectations for climber safety.  We also look at heavy snow delaying summits on Annapurna and, of course, a status update on Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

The media is going crazy with this headline in, of all places, People Magazine:" Mount Everest Climbers 'Poisoned' by Guides Prompting Mass Helicopter Rescues in $20 Million Insurance Fraud Scheme, Po...

I've been informed by the largest evacuation company, Global Rescue, that long-line rescues are unlikely to be available in the Himalayas this spring through their membership program. With an uncertai...

Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of...

The spring 2026 Everest climbing season is just around the corner. The Icefall doctors are already at Base Camp, preparing to fix the ropes to Camp 2 in the upper Western Cwm. Many expedition teams ha...

The backbone of every Everest season on the Nepali side are the Icefall Doctors, a team of highly skilled Sherpas who establish the climbing route and set the thin nylon safety rope from Base Camp to ...

With the Everest 2026 season about six weeks away, the rumor mill is on fire, out of control. With the explosion of social media influencers and mainstream (and many outdoor/adventurous media) using s...

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